Lexus LS 400 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 10

Do you mean Fuel Pump Relay?

Its supposed to be to the right of your battery ( if you are facing the engine from the front of the vehicle) at least thats where it is on my 96LS400

You change no parts The only parts that get replaced, are those that fail a test Have a repair shop take over & find a problem thru proper testing vs: a wish & hope strategy on a guess, by replacing good parts

What's your check engine code?

Clearing the codes is simple that is done by removing the fuse of the EFI from junction box 2 for 10 seconds. Make sure to remove the jumper wire and switch the key off before clearing the codes. Here are some common Lexus vehicles 1990-1995 codes: Code 12 and Code 13 Rpm signal circuit fault Code 14 Igniter signal circuit fault Code 16 ECT control signal fault Code 21 and Code 28 Main oxygen sensor fault (for ES300; SC300 & GS300 models) Code 22 Coolant temperature circuit fault Code 24 Intake temperature sensor circuit fault Code 25 and Code 26 Air fuel ratio fault (for ES300 & SC300 models) Code 27 Sub-oxygen sensor circuit fault (for ES300 CA & GS300 models) Code 31 Low airflow meter voltage (for ES300 and GS300 models) Code 32 High airflow meter voltage (for ES300 model) Code 35 Barometric pressure sensor circuit fault (for GS300 & SC300 models) Code 41 and Code 47 Throttle position sensor circuit fault Code 42 Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault Code 43 Starter signal Code 51 Switch condition signal fault (for ES300; GS300 & SC300 models) Code 52 Code 52 and Code 55 Knock sensor circuit fault Code 71 EGR system circuit fault (for ES300; GS300 & SC300 models) Code 78 Fuel pump control circuit fault (for GS300 & SC300 models)

Yeah, it's time for the timing belt. The crank and the cams sensors have to be on the the exact timing marks. When the belt gets old and start to stretch, it will pop the code. If you do it yourself, get a manual for it and follow it to a "T"

make sure all air is bleed out of the system by turning the wheel fully to one side then the other until the air is out of system and fluid level is at the correct level before replacing the solenoid.

Sounds like our Blazer when the ECM is about to bite the big one. A Chilton/Haynes manual that covers your car should give you some other ideas under the "trouble shooting" heading.

the steering lines fittings are different sizes it could be the sensor however make sure all the air is bleed out of the system first. to do this with the engine running turn the steering wheel full left and full right until you hear no noise then check the steering fluid level and repeat as needed.

have the front suspension and steering checked out by an accredited specialist to check for loose /worn components. This is a dangerous situation and requires immediate inspection.

Check and see do lights come on when not running. Most likely a dead battery, but jump it and it goes. Bad alternator not charging battery. No power, no go.

The diagram should be under the hood. If you have a 3/8" socket breaker bar you connect it to the tensioner turn it to release the tension on the belt. The tensioner will want to spring back and apply tention to the belt. While you have the tension off you can slip the belt off. Once the belt is off you can release the tensioner and put the new belt on. Once the belt is back on almost you have to pull the tensioner back releasing the tension and slip the belt into it's final resting place and slowly putting tension back on the belt. The tension on the belt is extremely strong and if you are not careful you can smash or snap your fingers off when putting tension back on the belt if your fingers are between the belt and a pully. The cost of a belt is about $50 on most cars and you can do it in about 15 minutes with out taking anything apart. Look for a youtube video on Serpentine belt change on a Suburban or a Corvette it is the easiest type of car to do it on and will give you an idea of how to do it on a front wheel drive car which is a bit harder because of how the engine is placed under the hood. Same deal though with a tensioner and 3/8" socket wrench.

whats the issue? duhhh???

MAP sensors are not cleanable, MAF sensors are.

Nothing to clean. It either works or not. Make sure the vacuum hose to it isn't cracked or loose fitting.

Best bet is the it to a toyota dealershipnor Napa and have them hook up the computer. They will tell you if your timing is off.

Please check plugs, plugs wires and distributor connection

check for spark from the spark plug wire pull the plug wire put a screw driver in the wire hold it by the plastic handel so the shaft of the screw driver is close but not touching a ground and watch for a spark be careful not to get shocked or see if the fuel pump is bad sometimes you can hit the gas tank with your hand while you turn the engine over you have to hit hard and fast while trying to start it this means the fuel pump is bad if it starts because it will stop again

You have small gas charged shocks that are supposed to support the weight of the hood that have probably lost their charge and need replaced. Until you can get them replaced you can find a bar, or piece of wood that is the right length or cut to length to prop the hood up, or you can clamp a pair of vice grips to the shaft of one of the bad shocks to keep it from going down on you.

Is your check engine light coming on? Sounds as if something is getting hot and then cooling down my research points to a known fault of your year and type of vehicle The electronic control module has capacitors in it that are sub grade and they melt down after awhile and have been known to cause this as well as a bunch of other driveability issues. Replace your ECM and let me know