Lexus LS 400 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8

Yes if it has a program key

Tony, take the new belt off and start over. You've not set the valve timing properly. Get the #1 piston up to top dead center on compression stroke first. Now remove the belt and get the crankshaft in proper position, THEN put the belt back on NOT moving the crank or cam pully when applying the tensioner. Before you put the covers and other stuff back on and in your way of sight, turn the engine over 360 degrees and see if the marks come back to proper position. Should be good now. Put the accessories back on and done.

Try adding a bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Stabilizer...add when motor is warm...tranny filter is most likely clogged and dirty...this additive works on most...

Check you catalytic converter.

Check Scan Tool Data Then study factory service & diagnostic manuals The check service bulletins Then follow the trouble charts in those manuals Then do the required testing to find a problem

Hard to say but very bad either way. It is going to take some serious investigation and corrective action either way. Biggest issue will likely be where to stop - If you dig in and find a bad wrist pin, do you replace that and button it all up and hope for the best or keep looking and replacing stuff? Good luck and if you have time, add in developments via comment to the original question.

Yeah, it's time for the timing belt. The crank and the cams sensors have to be on the the exact timing marks. When the belt gets old and start to stretch, it will pop the code. If you do it yourself, get a manual for it and follow it to a "T"

Here's the link and I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Sorry, but it could be the switch or wiring. Have it checked out..

there are 2 different faults here . replacing the front brakes will not cause your second problem.Run the fault codes first to see what may be recorded.

Fuse bank should be in a black box under the hood in the engine compartment, usually its close to the battery.

the steering lines fittings are different sizes it could be the sensor however make sure all the air is bleed out of the system first. to do this with the engine running turn the steering wheel full left and full right until you hear no noise then check the steering fluid level and repeat as needed.

display dtc codes

make sure all air is bleed out of the system by turning the wheel fully to one side then the other until the air is out of system and fluid level is at the correct level before replacing the solenoid.

toyota dealership

you might want to try to check the fuse box locate the fuse for the specific light and check that is not burned. you might also want to check the actual light bolt to see if the light bolt is not burned out.

What's your check engine code?

Do you mean Fuel Pump Relay?

It is on the internet in several places Google Type: Lexus OBD P1600

Sounds like our Blazer when the ECM is about to bite the big one. A Chilton/Haynes manual that covers your car should give you some other ideas under the "trouble shooting" heading.