Jeep Wrangler - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

First look at fuel pressure pump jam

You changed the master cylinder and vacuum booster and have no leaks anywhere, but did you bleed the entire brake system after you did this work? A little bit of air in any of the lines will make the brakes ineffective.

No rear light's at all could be a bad ground connection . Looking at a wiring diagram to check what all is involved in the rear lighting circuit's should be the first step .or you could just look under the rear of the vehicle for corroded wiring ,loose connection on the frame or body etc... Sometimes just having a good look around reveals the problem . If nothing is evident ,testing with a DMM - digital multi-meter will need to be done . Using a testing method called voltage drop . It's so simple ! Watch this two guy's , professional technician's , teachers etc... Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on stop lamps .Click the search button then the blue link .Don't know if you'll be able to make head's or tail's out of these diagram's . You may want to go to ALLDATA an pay for a year OE Info for Student and DIY er Vehicle repair information you had no idea existed

122 is not a valid code, codes look like this, letter "P" followed by four numbers, a typical code is P0028, which is a VVT control issue.

Start out by checking the latch mechanism on the door. Use a screwdriver to "trip" the latch with the door open, then pull on the screwdriver against the latch gate. If it doesn't hold then you may have a bad latch (the springs in the latch can go bad over time). You can also try spraying penetrating oil (PB Blaster) into the latch and again using a screwdriver to trip the latch, then open with the handle, and repeat several times to work the oil into the mechanism and free it up (this trick also sometimes works with the springs on wiper arms that have lost tension). If the penetrating oil trick works, think about spraying dry lube or white lithium grease into the latch to help prevent it from happening again. If the door is misaligned, consider new hinge bushings, a misaligned door can cause damage to the door, and put tension on the door latch in a direction that puts pressure on the latch that it wasn't designed for.

You must get the system scanned for fault codes, sounds like the electronic throttle control has a failure.

I would need to inspect the problem to even have a guess as to what you did wrong or if the part is incorrect for the application.

You are going to have to check the codes.Then we will know what the engine is asking for. A code reader can be bought at Canadian Tire for $30 to $40.

great question, wana Read the shop manual for free, ?it answers all this, its a rolling encrypted secret code.bad ideasays it all, YOU DID.now the system sees you hacking,and bricks it.there is only 1 fix. dealer time. or a shop with same tools.they must be all married or they self brickits also law here in use, DOT bs, rules.not jeeps fault < GOV BS.page 8e-1 , on, read. in jeep SM.When a PCM (JTEC) and the SKIM are replacedat the same time, perform the following steps inorder:(1) Program the new PCM (JTEC).(2) Program the new SKIM.(3) Replace all ignition keys and program them tothe new SKIM.PROGRAMMING THE PCM (JTEC)The SKIS Secret Key is an ID code that is uniqueto each SKIM. This code is programmed and storedin the SKIM, the PCM, and the ignition key transponderchip(s). When replacing the PCM, it is necessaryto program the secret key into the new PCMusing the DRBIIIt scan tool. Perform the followingsteps to program the secret key into the PCM.(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position(transmission in Park/Neutral).(2) Use the DRBIIIt and select THEFT ALARM,SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.(3) Select PCM REPLACED (GAS ENGINE).(4) Enter secured access mode by entering thevehicle four-digit PIN.(5) Select ENTER to update PCM VIN.NOTE: If three attempts are made to enter securedaccess mode using an incorrect PIN, securedaccess mode will be locked out for one hour. Toexit this lockout mode, turn the ignition switch tothe ON position for one hour, then enter the correctPIN. (Ensure all accessories are turned off. Alsomonitor the battery state and connect a batterycharger if necessary).(6) Press ENTER to transfer the secret key (theSKIM will send the secret key to the PCM).(7) Press PAGE BACK to get to the Select Systemmenu and select ENGINE, MISCELLANEOUS, andSRI MEMORY CHECK.(8) The DRBIIIt will ask, “Is odometer readingbetween XX and XX?” Select the YES or NO buttonon the DRBIIIt. If NO is selected, the DRBIIIt willread, “Enter Odometer Reading (From I.P. odometer)”.Enter the odometer reading from the instrumentcluster and press ENTER.PROGRAMMING THE SKIM(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position(transmission in Park/Neutral).(2) Use the DRBIIIt and select THEFT ALARM,SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.(3) Select PCM REPLACED (GAS ENGINE).(4) Program the vehicle four-digit PIN into SKIM.(5) Select COUNTRY CODE and enter the correctcountry.NOTE: Be sure to enter the correct country code. Ifthe incorrect country code is programmed intoSKIM, it cannot be changed and the SKIM must bereplaced.(6) Select YES to update VIN (the SKIM will learnthe VIN from the PCM).(7) Press ENTER to transfer the secret key (thePCM will send the secret key to the SKIM).(8) Program ignition keys to the SKIM.NOTE: If the PCM and the SKIM are replaced at thesame time, all vehicle ignition keys will need to bereplaced and programmed to the new SKIM.PROGRAMMING IGNITION KEYS TO THE SKIM(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position(transmission in Park/Neutral).(2) Use the DRBIIIt and select THEFT ALARM,SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.(3) Select PROGRAM IGNITION KEY’S.(4) Enter secured access mode by entering thevehicle four-digit PIN.NOTE: A maximum of eight keys can be learned toeach SKIM. Once a key is learned to a SKIM it (thekey) cannot be transferred to another vehicle.(5) Obtain ignition keys to be programmed fromthe customer (8 keys maximum).(6) Using the DRBIIIt, erase all ignition keys byselecting MISCELLANEOUS, and ERASE ALL CURRENTIGN. KEYS.(7) Program all of the ignition keys.If ignition key programming is unsuccessful, theDRBIIIt will display one of the following messages:² Programming Not Attempted - The DRBIIItattempts to read the programmed key status andthere are no keys programmed into SKIM memory.² Programming Key Failed (Possible UsedKey From Wrong Vehicle) - SKIM is unable to programan ignition key transponder due to one of thefollowing:² The ignition key transponder is faulty.² The ignition key transponder is or has beenalready programmed to another vehicle.² 8 Keys Already Learned, Programming NotDone - The SKIM transponder ID memory is full.² Learned Key In Ignition - The ID for the ignitionkey transponder currently in the ignition lockcylinder is already programmed in SKIM memory.end quote.

Spray some starting fluid into the throttle body. If it starts then you have a fuel problem. If it does not, then check to see if you have spark to the plugs.

Check fuel pressure regulator for a rupture by pulling off the vacuum line and see if it is full of fuel.

You have burned fuse 9 in the interior panel. Is that the one you replaced?

open the console up and remove the annoying item

there is a static timing setting from which the ECM advances or retards the spark according to sensor reports and rpms using a timing light connected to no 1 cylinder set the mark on the pulley to 10 degrees btdc and that will allow the timing to work properly if there is no scale on the timing cover and a small slot th the pulley flange do this remove no 1 plug and get no 1 piston coming up on compression using a piece of copper wire in the plug hole determine when the piston is at TDC by seeing the wire moves up or down as you move the crank either way place a white paint line at a convenient place on the cover and on the pulley edge now move the pulley back ( anticlockwise ) about 3/4 of an inch and put a second mark on the timing cover That second mark will be close to 10 degrees and will be within the parameters for the ECM to adjust the timing when running using the timing light again turn the body of the distributor until the pulley mark lines up with the second mark you made and clamp it up at that point

Sure. Just could be a loose line

thrown parts never fixes cars. 50 causes, can be 49 time guesing wrong or worse added a new defective part to the mix. yes finish the tune up, why did you do it last>? odd no? vacuum leaks cause, high idle on all jeeps!! and then the ECU sees bad idle and tries over and over to reach 700rpm (spec) and cant so hunts it (that hunting today is deemed ******* , ask toyota why , fines) all vacuum leaks do that , if it sucks AIR , illegally it will do that. illegalll means air not from the ISC stepper drive device. bad hoses, bad gaskets what ever. does engine reach and hold 180f coolant temperatures??? this is first. it must, does it? ill not guess, I propose doing a thing called TESTING. lots of thoughts, really .... here are mine, plus RENIX facts. I owed 2 , 1988s, with dang REnix french EFI? a horrid system. TBI is yours TBI not MPI? (count the injectors there) mpi is 4. no sold scan tools work on it and no CEL lamp. on RENIX. nor does the key on 3 times trick. work before 91, dang! 1991 it changed to far better and the 3 key trick works then... black smoke is: (rich) high fuel pressure. (id be all over this) then injector leaks, (do a leak down test ) then ECT bad, e (old name CTS) on a hot engine, it reads (ohmmeter tests) 25,000 ohms is wrong, for 0degr. F. 317 ohms is about par for 180f normal temp , is yours 300 hot unplugged??????. a simple 5 min test. if not the thermostat is bad or CTS bad. (IR gun it to learn this) i see that rough idle , its MISFIRING and its really flooding . and black smoke is always results of that, and most CATcons this old are now dead, (cat converter on all mine broke-up to bits and gone inside, and stinks any time it's rich or misfiring) par for 90s./: the 1990 wangler books are rare, but can be found on ebay buy one is my best advice, its and old jeep and its best to check compression on all old cars. did you? x5 warm or hot, and WOT tested, (throttle open) the 2.5L most 1990(not 91) have TBI and ****** RENIX EFI (French junk) only jeep dealer scan tools work here, not you. the injector must not leak. just 1 injector here, (key off running does it dribble now? must not) looking with eyes./ (the SM is in my hands) service manual.. 2.5L (NOT 4.2L) conducted a tune-up last cap,rotor, wires, sparks and filters is a full tuneup on any neglected 90s jeep. good engine first good spark then fueling last. order matters, on old cars, new cps. yes all injectors tick but yours has only 1. and takes a stethoscope to hear. (or my mag sensor tool) this AMC spark system uses and ICM 2.5L only and 50 tooth CMP sensors in the Distributor. (CPS you called it?) my guess you replaced the TDC sensor TDC sensor (mounted at the rear of the engine on the flywheel housing) CKP its called today. (yes names all changed long ago) in a real shop we sCOPE the spark to see if its ok. then check Fuel pressure, the EFI in this car can not correct bad fuel pressure its blind to it. this engine has a very odd TBI it has a pressure test port and a FPR pressure adjustment screw. here are the SM words on this, and I quote. Fuel pump operating pressure is 14.5 psi (100 kPa). The fuel pressure regulator is adjustable by means of a Torx® head screw on the bottom of the pressure regulator.

1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the screw test port plug on the throttle body, then install a fuel pressure test fitting. Pressure test fittings are available at many auto parts stores.
2. Connect an accurate pressure test gauge to the test fitting.
3. Connect a tachometer to diagnostic connector terminals D1-1 and D1-3, then start the engine and accelerate it to 2000 rpm.
4. Read the fuel pressure on the gauge. If necessary, turn the adjustment screw on the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator to obtain 14.5 psi (100 kPa) of fuel pressure. Turning the screw inward increases the pressure and turning the screw outward decreases the pressure.
5. Once all adjustments are complete, install a lead seal ball to cover the regulator adjusting screw. Turn the ignition OFF, then disconnect the tachometer and remove the fuel pressure gauge. Install the original plug screw into the throttle body, then install the air cleaner assembly.

top is test port bottom is adj screw. (this is like 1st test on rich fuel) recap. 1: cyl compression at spec, WOT. 2: a real tuneup completed ,not just spark plugs. (ICM bad?) 3: ECT reads 300 ohms hot (CTS) 4: fuel pressure at spec. 14.5psi. 5: injector not leaking. (had bad fuel in the last year, or now?) 6: there are no sold scan tools work here, so id have to scope all ecu pins to find cause. sorry but its sticking RENIX. has the car sat unused for a year, ? no history when was car a good daily driver, ? last decade? last week?

When was the last time the 1995 transfer case was serviced? First change the oil, It is possible for the transfer chain to jump teeth when the tensioner is not adjusted correctly. Do not engage any 4WD functions until further investigation is done. Also disengage front hub locks(free). Never operate 4WD on pavement, Damage to drivetrain and premature tire wear will occur. Buy a Chilton manual for the Jeep for detailed maint. procedures. The transfer case is very expensive

Check the owners manual for definition of triangle

https://s3.postimg.org/h5xf6su3n/pcv.jpg Click on the link. This should be vac lines for 4.2L engine.

A body shop may have the info you need as they/their parts manual should show breakdown for ordering parts but dealer should have the same breakdown as the parts are ordered from them anyway---you may have to schmooze somebody to get a Pix