Jeep Commander - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

if you know the real name of the tranny you could just google that i went jeep.com then parts dept and its a W5A580 there are 2 answers. the mech says, snug them up. the FSM gives real torques. guess which dont strip out aluminum. best is an inch /pound Torque wrech, and most are set to 70 inch/lbs. divide that by 12 for foot. (shop math 101) first Google hit does it. http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-14280.html I use real books, not rumors on the net, hell it's your Trans. right? i use alldata.com (best of the best ,for $15 lousy bucks) or best of best the ReAL DEAL. IS: https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

use an ammeter that i posted in your first post

must we guess, post what fails? post symptoms using WORDS.

the same on all cars really, all EFI cars. same. generic answer. 1: pull negative battery lug , not wanting someone turning key , project half done and BOOM a nice fuel fire. or way worse. 2: dRain the tank. 3: remove wired connectors to the tank pump and sender 4: remove all lines to tank, 5: remove hoses to same 6: put a jack and flat board under tank and take up its weight. 7: drop tank straps. 8: lower jack. why not youtube this and watch 1000s do same. its not some secret. or read the FSM. read page 19 here under WJ 04 fuel injection then ask questions, on things not clear in the real manual. or go to alldata.com and read. or jeep here. https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx 4 answers.

Sounds like screen is shot. If you are getting a poor signal or static it could be faulty ground but most likely it's screen burn out

which engine? the 3.7? 4.7 or the 5.7? we can not guess engine here yours fell off? and is the top rad cover , most have the belt sticker there, in view. did you look for that first? ill guess at

Bendix is finished ,replace yourself or go to dealer, Not a big job if you have the tools.

my guess is 7ft/lbs. be nice to know actual trans used ,no? they have model numbers and sub types. my guess is the 45RFE, not the NAG1. may books state, snug em/ up , and dont distort the gasket but the real book shows 105 in. lbs or 11.8 N•m (that is inch lbs not FEET) 105 divided by 12 is = 8.75 ft./lbs my 7 was good guess, no?

why ask this? the kit has just one fitting and only fits 1 of the 2 test ports. and the lines are all in clear view. one big . one small. http://www.wikihow.com/Recharge-the-Air-Conditioner-in-a-Car The LOW pressure fitting is SMALLER than the HIGH pressure fitting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fUXowxiJSo the lines can vary buy what engine option you have. not STATED. and is covered 100% in the FSM. for all engines. you can see the 2 A/C lines go through the fire wall to the evap. you can see both lines. and both fittings if you just look for 1min. the small one , is a bingo.

rear end (I use and electronic stethoscope to find all that) but rear end. is a big place.. bad U-joints top that list (repeat) bad axle bearings. brakes bad, there. or the warning devices there for early brake warn. bad 3rd member, gear sets or bearings in same or pinion. my guess is car is moving right> if not moving ,its dying rat up in there.or loose parts.

How about learning to drive the car and not worrying about the Parking Assist... How about checking your Fuses?

lock vehicle with either remote or use lock button on door inside car...then goto passenger side door and unlock it with key..this should reset it

did you use both sets if keys, as car came with new?or running naked, 1 key?try the other key.if you lost the backup, then it\'s.

1. Dealer time. (towed)
2. ASE shop time (same)
3. or call the mobile lock smith that does CARs.

in the fuse box. the operators guide, cover this. in the glove box lost that? get it , download it and next time be ready? http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/manuals/

it wont crank, no A/t car starts unless cranked first. (a key point)fix head lights first. this is a feature in all cars.that is SIMPLE and HOT all the timethey must work at all times and is the top way to diagnose electric problemsyou have a dead battery,.only why remains.i bet it cranks jumper cable started, call AAA or buy some cables.or swap in a charged battery , or heck charge yours, buy a charger.check fuses.check battery lugs for green death?check battery voltage. at 12.6vdc, if not charge the batteryif the battery continues to disgharge.that is called phantom drains, or bad battery .or the alternators is bad.(system)once started the battery volts must be 13.3.to 15v, if not the charge system is bad ,(fuses, belts slipping and lots more possibles)

get it serviced. DIY check fuses first, check connections to it. or read the FSM https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

The Pin switch on the door is bad check it and repalce

the fsm covers this. controls bad. damper bad. or the damp flap stuck simple tests in the FSM cover this., as does the removal.

what does fix mean. double posted now, as anon. no less. is it broken or motors dead? what? tell symptoms then ask how to correct those.

open glove box. extract opr guide read it.