Jeep Amc - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

indicates a blockage in the emulsion tube in the carby it screws in before the main jet and protrudes into the air flow if there is a screw adjustment in the bottom of the carby, that controls the amount of fuel available to the main jet float level is critical for this type of carby

With a test light follow the wires from the battery to the fuse box to see where you lost the connection. You may have a burnt fusable link. . Run 12 v directly the the fuse box and see if that helps.

Could have one of several issues, if your wiring does not look bad in other sections, then focus on a possible bad fuel pump. If wiring is bad, recommend you replace or repair.

Check this web page and double check to make sure that I entered in all the correct information. *** http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=69-4.2L-258ci-S6 You can find just about all of the torque specs that you should need here. Also you might want to order yourself a Chilton manual. They usually have all of the specs in the back of the book and throughout the different sections.

replace the oil pressure sensor which also has a wire to the circuit to prime the fuel pump upon starting. once the oil pressure is acheived the fuel pump relay takes over

What type of vehicle is this?

try looking under cars ,then jeep and it may have a manual in pdf format already uploaded ,if no i have paperback one of 1990 till 2000 and tell me what you want to know and i will scan and paste for you

This is a pretty involved job. I always tell my customers to go to the local Library and check out the Hughes or Chilton's Manual. It is free and will save you a lot of time and money. I could explain how to do this. But I am sure that myself or any other Expert on here would be going off of memory, and could leave some steps out. That is why I always suggest the library. Checking the book out is free and I am sure that it will save you a lot of time.

what model is it, auto parts store should have a repair manual for that model.

sounds like tranny is no good but take out dip stick an smell it if smells burnt try to change fluid if not burnt there might be a can of some sought on tranny that might be no good

Please give more details related to the problem.Please mention what part needs to be checked.Also mention about the problem in bit detail so it can be helped in much better way.
Thanks.keep updated.with more details.

Sounds like your clutch is bad in it.

The starter is bad,the contacts in the stater are worn out.The sad part is,they are not replaceable.Contacts took the place of starter brushes.The new starters are low gear,permanent magnet built.Purchase a new starter and be done with it.I hope this was some help,if so,please let us know,thank you.

What you do now largely depends on what you did before you laid it up.
Fuel has a shelf life of about thirty days so you can expect that the fuel in the tank is essentially dead. If the tank was not full, depending upon wher it was stored (outside or inside, heated or not) you may also expect some condensation (water) in the tank. If the oil was old in the engine, you could change that as well...used oil develops acids in it that are not good for your bearings. Other than that, charge the battery, prime the carburetor and start it up.
You can use the fuel removed in small quantities, adding it to fresh stuff a gallon or so at a time till it's used up, over several weeks (better than wasting it) add three ounces of acetone per ten gallons and do not use any part with water or sediment in it.

at the ignition switch

center point is posative....outer ring is ground...

That may be right - no gas in the carb is likely a bad fuel pump, or a clogged fuel filter.

Whew! Tight spot. Here are some quick and some more involved things to check. Hopefully, another responder will pitch in. A good time to call AAA. Troubleshoot this issue step by step: Check for Spark: Crank the engine and check if there's a spark at the spark plugs or ignition coil. If you have a spark, the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is likely not the problem. Fuel Pump Operation: When you turn the key to the "on" position (but not start), you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds. If you don't hear it, there might be an issue with the fuel pump or its relay. ASD Relay: The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay controls power to essential components like the ignition coils. If the ASD relay is faulty, you won't get spark. Check and replace it if necessary. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Ensure that these sensors are functioning correctly. They play a crucial role in engine performance. Check the Key: If everything else checks out, consider the key itself. The chip in the key has a unique identifier code. Some replacement keys may mimic this code, so make sure your key is genuin.. Bus Line and SKIM Module: Verify the PCI bus line between the PCM/data link connector and the SKIM module. If there's an issue with communication, it could prevent the engine from starting

old fords have them and yours does tomine not. ,not my JK Nor wk. I have your real factory service manual here on screen 2. yes, replacing the alternator with the battery connected does blow a fuse. in 1 nano second fast. BOOM , let the smoke out. but saved by the link. OKAY you were right the liberty has that link you were right, it has links ! this is your actual car, wiringi have it all there. FSM PDF real.

This might sound silly but have you checked the switches on the actual light fittings? They usually have three settings. Permanently Off, door controlled or permanently On. If there are no switches on the actual light fitting try pushing the lens itself at each narrow end. Some lenses rock end to end as the switch mechanism.