Hyundai Elantra - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues - Page 8

1997 elantra My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website reliable-store that i used to buy them from, and they sold online it was very good manual.

if it's a 2001 my info doesn't show the 2001 Elantra GTS as coming with an alarm. GT does have keyless/alarm. Are you sure its not just a keyless entry system? Test it by doing the following: Close all doors and sit in car, 'arm' the alarm with the remote, wait about a minute and open the door from the inside...if the horn starts beeping you have an alarm. If nothing happens, you only have keyless entry. Anyway disarming a ETACS alarm system is not a option.

How do you know it is not the horn itself?? They do go bad..buy a replacement and test...cheers.

The beeping and dinging are different apparatus to the horn mate..

Sounds like the idle sensor needs replacing

Normally the bulb socket and wires powering the bulb are accessed from behind. The plastic socket may come out by twisting it to the left and then pulling it out (bayonet style socket). The bulb is most likely a small glass bulb with a flattened base that just pulls out. Take it to any car parts store to find a replacement - look for a style number on the bulb. Note the way the wires are folded up along the side of the bulb when you pull it out. You'll want to put the new bulb in with the wires folded up the side of the base the same way. If the bulb is an older style round metal based bulb, it is normally removed by pushing in, twisting to the left and then pulling it out (also bayonet style). Take it to the car parts store to find a matching replacement.

Sounds like a faulty turn signal switch. If you checked all the fuses, and I would have even replaced them just to be sure. I had one years ago that looked good, but it was defective. If you need a new switch, check rocksuto.com I find that they usually have the cheapest prices.

Call dealer or radio manufacturer.

Yes, there's a relay in the passenger compartment relay box. Power flows from 2 fuses; blower fuse 30A in the engine compartment relay box and fuse 12 10A in the dash fuse box. The 20A fuse goes to one side of the blower relay contacts. The other fuse goes to one side of the relay control coil. When you turn the blower switch on, it ground the control coil which moves the contacts and sends power to the motor. The motor speeds are controlled on the ground side of the circuit by the blower motor resistor. Which resistor provides ground depends on the speed switch setting you choose. But the whole system depends on ground G01. If that ground is bad or corroded, the blower won't work

Either the hose connections are leaking at the rack or the rack is leaking. If you're not seeing any fluid, disconnect one of the bellows at the end of the rack. I bet fluid will pour out

Inspect the spark plugs. If they are wet, suspect the injectors may be leaking,

It is located under the alternator. If you are looking down at the engine, it is to the far left. If you are under the car it is to the far right before the oil pan.

Try to describe the sound as well as you can. Could it be an exhaust leak?

You shorted something out. Check all fuses and relays. I think you blew a relay not a fuse.

Alarm circuitry usually memorises the battery voltage half a minute-ish after being set. If the sensed battery voltage falls too fast because the battery is (almost) faulty or in a low state of charge, the alarm brain will believe a door has been opened and switched on the interior light. That is one scenario of several possibles... Shaking the car is very unlikely to trigger a modern car alarm though opening a door should - because it doesn't it might indicate it isn't being armed (or fully armed), perhaps because it can't find a stable battery voltage to lock onto or perhaps it thinks there is a door, bonnet or boot open due to defective switching, the bonnet is most likely.

door lock actuator might be faulty or bad electrical contact take off the door panel and diconnect and reconnect the wiring, you might need to change door lock actuator

at the exhaust manifold there is a flex joint in the exhaust pipe what you describe indicates that that flex section has failed and need replacing There is no transmission problem

indicates a faulty strut cartridge insert take it to a suspension specialist for replacement they come as pairs so have both sides done labour time is around 2 hours max

Look at your air intake on the motor: as the pedal is pushed you'll see the apparatus and a screw that controls how far back the pedal goes when it's not being pushed. The easiest way is to see the idle adjusted and more fixes for the idle problems are available on YouTube and through a Google search.

The head gasket is allowing compression gas into the water jacket. Did you have the head ground flat before installing it on the head gasket?. Was the old head gasket completely removed from the block? It doesn't take much if a speck of old gasket remains on the block.

Vent valve has failed closed or cannister is clogged up. Have the evap system checked from the tank to the charcoal canister. If you need to drive to a mechanic, try driving with the gas cap loose.