Hyundai Accent - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8

the abs unit tells the ecu and the gearbox the speed and when to change gear if this is not working it could be one of these two the abs unit or the wheel sensor, the wheel sensor there are 4 of them in uk left front wheel is the speedo signal sensor, if abs system is dead i.e saying there is no faults or even connecting to a reader there is a fault. to determine the gear the gearbox needs the signal range sensor incorrect means there is a signal coming to the gear box but its erratic.

when you try to start engine does the starter motor engage or do you hear a clicking ? also when you turn on ignition do you hear a click ?

The brake pads are grabbing due to moisture, I would replace them with a set of high quality after market ones to stop this problem.

Power windows use self resetting circuit breakers not fuses. They plug in like a fuse but have a metal body where a fuse has a plastic see thru body. Severe over loading will damage the bi metal reed resulting in no reset. The age of your vehicle warrants replacing the breakers

when washing an engine you have to be careful any seal on the electrics can be weak and water can get in this will disrupt the signals the ecu uses. you will need to remove one by one every sensor cap were the wiring goes in and check there is no water in them, even the ecu connection, any water found dry out and replace the seal as its weak, you have to be careful when washing engines they don't get that wet in normal running, i usually steam clean the engine bay as this does not use excessive amounts of water and removes oil and grease better than water on it own.

you need to find out what is draining the battery, it could be the alarm or lights, with nothing being used and a fully charged battery the voltage at the batter should be around 12volts. you will need a volt meter to find out what is the voltage, when the engine is running the voltage at the battery should be between 13.85 and 14.volts, if the voltage is low at the battery when charged the problem is the battery, if the engine is running and its at 12-13 volts then there is a problem with the alternator. if all of these parts are fine then you need to remove fuses one at a time and check the voltage drop, when you find the fuse you need to check your log book or info on fuse box to find what that fuse controls. if you don't have fog lights then its not them dont know who told you that. it can also be a fault with the backup battery for the alarm these can fail over time and they drain the battery.

14.5V output. is to spec on a new alternator at rest battery will be 12 volts whats the problem

take it to auto zone and have the fault codes read for free come back with the revealed faults

hyundai spares departments e- bay kits from carby overhaul shops

unblock the ac drain hose at the ac box or under the car

when an engine will not start off the starter motor but will push start it indicates a problem battery or dirty battery posts or terminals what is happening is that the capacity of the battery is reduced( especially on cold mornings) and the current draw to the starter drops the available current available to the ECM for the ignition system and so it will not power up push starting is diverting all available power to the ECM so it starts unless a jumper battery is connected correctly( positive to positive and negative to the engine --not the negative of the battery) it is just feeding power to the dead battery and nothing is achieved for the ECM and ignition system to check a battery correctly a load tester has to be applied to the battery and when the test is applied , there is a discharge across a resistance equal to a starter motor draw and that is referred to a voltage drop on the meter batteries will read a 12 volts across the terminals but when loaded down that voltage drops to around 10 volts for a good battery and less than 6 for a faulty battery the other item of concern is that when the starter is engaged , there is a requirement for the run circuit to be energized so that spark can be produced and if that circuit has a faulty wire or connections the problem could be there Take the car to an accredited auto electrician, have the battery load tested and have the circuit on the start side of the ignition switch checked

Did you run over some kind of object, such as a curb, a tree limb, or debris from an accident, or hit a deep chuck hole in a road? I think you bent the linkage rods. You might have to get replacements, maybe even at a do-it-yourself auto salvage yard.

Evaporator vent silenoid at rear by gas tank is most likely stopped up. Is the check engine light on? If so, take to Auto Zone and get them to scan it for free. Get codes only and post them.

bad battery ( have a load test done faulty ignition switch

If you detected the engine knocking and the knock sensor also detected it to the extent it caused the ECM to set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) then simply replacing the knock sensor was a waste of time and money, a case of shooting the messenger because you don't like the message. If the car is under warranty or guarantee then take it to the dealer for complete diagnostics. Do not under any circumstances be put off by lame explanations that they can't do anything. Take the car to other dealers to get written reports on the car. It is very important to get the reports in writing as this gives you legal protection with regard to the guarantee.

Both cooling fans should run continuous when A/C is on. Switch A/C off to avoid Blown head gasket hazard.

With the wire to the compressor unplugged, see if 12 volts is present at the plug. If voltage is present, then check the terminals on the compressor clutch for continuity. ( voltage meter in beep mode) Volt meter will beep if clutch coil is good, no beep, clutch coil is bad. Also low Freon pressure will disable clutch via low pressure switch at the accumulator. Always check pressure and add Freon to low side(large tubing) A freeze hazard and explosion hazard (high side, small tubing) exist when handling Freon. Wear safety glasses and be careful. Also cooling fans should run continuous when A/C is on

first I would have someone recover the R134a from the system then add dye and recharge to the correct level R134a and check vent temp levels this system would work half way normal if R134a is low by .4 oz's but would take a long time to cool the car down

They are all over the place on the cause of this. There are some that have debris in the fuel tank, loose fuel pump, bad electric connections bad yaw sensor, bad ecm etc. IT IS NOT A SAFETY FEATURE. Try the ESC off and see if that helps.

the alternator is not charging that can be from problem alternator , wiring ,fuse , voltage regulator, incorrectly adjusted alternator drive belt or dead battery best have an accredited auto electrician check it out by bench testing the alternator and voltage regulator and load testing the battery loose or dirty /corroded battery terminals will also be a part of the problem if the voltage regulator is integrated with the ECM , you will need a replacement ECM BUt get the proper diagnosis done first as that will save cash