Hummer H3 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. So you now have 3 issues with your H3. They are all electronic. You need a qualified auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer to read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes. The codes tell the story and the fix. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

levels good (tranny dip sticked , hot, idle , in park) shift linkage not bad. PRNDL does car move in park if car, is in park, and take off all brakes can car be pushed,? if yes park is failing too, and is bad shift linkage. this is step 1 and 2 in the service manual on topic of like 20 test. on car. RTM read the manual yet? buy it ?

Regarding the hard-to-turn feeling with a H3 Hummer. I had the same problem with one of my Hummers. The remedy was quick and simple, but the actual fix was more involved. The remedy was to push the 2x4 button (take it out out of 4 wheel drive). The 4x4 button is very easy to touch and engage when reaching the right side of the dash (for any reason). If the engage light is burned out, there is no way to know that the vehicle is in high range 4x4, except while turning right or left, or when you notice that the 2 x4 light is not lit. The fix is to replace the switch, which is somewhat costly and labor intensive.

My 06 was leaking during rain also. It turned out to be the sunroof. There are two drain tubes in the front of the sunroof that run the water down the corners to the ground and two drain tubes that drain water out the back corners. The water would seep around the glass, which is expected, but both of the tubes on the front of mine were plugged, and the water would overflow behind the dash and fill my floorboards. If my H3 was leaning to the left during a storm then the drivers side would be full of water. If leaning right, then the passenger side. I had to open sunroof and blow compressed air into the drain holes to clear them, but be careful, too much air will separate tubes from sunroof and then you will have to remove the inside paneling around sunroof to get to tubes and reconnect. You may only have one side plugged. you can test it by opening sunroof and pour a little water in the small catch pan in the front of the sunroof and see if it drains as expected (to the ground under the firewall on left AND right side). You can see the holes in each corner of catch pan to drain the water. Plug one with your finger, then the other to find the plugged side. Good luck!! Hope this helps!!

no year truck told why make it so hard.? 2006 to 2010, just 5 years.sold it can only be 2 places then. fuel rail or in the tank pump rack if car has 2 fuel lines it is on the rail if 1 line it is in the tank. 2 lines means low pressure regulation why not just pretend to buy it online see where it goes here I will for you in the USA the EPA caused this change,. BINGO 2008 guess 5.3L guess2 bingo in the rack https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5929317&cc=1441263&pt=10147&jsn=1041&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1XyS%2BrEifIwvxWIl7Mt9zft%2BWrd9NkObID6vX0VSfQvQu4KjTdKrzbDUBi9MzX%2FMdafUFWZ%2BkPLPhA3p459yzN6Kx9av8o0LZZeZcw1BlrZsyqN5mxsHgljscTFxks%2BO5NY5rLt8F4DK8Tawqmjk8dG9yROMXCPDLMJb876dqpOM0%2BG19tvZWSevwMEnCAYcUkYY9fAhpBZIXbFxUv4Gy09RmhWVlvNmIPSUIMAVvETkC9%2BUdWdQyhVKA4qQLNE2PYWkYeHwd3x8JoiUOjEiqI7ezoumSA%2BlUDltDKLaMbpqYChHkdNZMN9orXthuE4L3f0uDEamphST877IAFeeNPP7w7t9Ao%2B40cSj5HuF8wud

passenger kick panel Debra, Check the attached links,instruction and guides, 1st link will download pdf. showing how all panels are removed., Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Interior-Trim-Paneling-1.pdf Hummer H1 Service Manual Inner Kick Panels Replacement Body Control Module Repairing Bad Solder Joints

Try charging the battery a bit by snaking the positive jumper cable underneath to the starter post where the big cable connects, and the negative jumper cable to a good ground on the frame.

I'm not 100% on this but I think it's like a lot of GM's; turn the key to the "on" position(not running), stomp the gas pedal to the floor 3 times within 5 seconds & the light should flash & go out.

no need to unless the compressor blew up. why not ask a shop to fix it.??? they do a battery of tests and fix it fast. even in hours. to replace that valve behind the evaporator core on most cars is horror. (nothing less)<< so why we do all tests first not 10 hours labor for zero gained. that be over the top. THAT act BREAKS OPEN THE LOOP .! best is avoid that. AND ALL R134A Refrigerant is lost. doing that. a real shop captures it and looks for metal particles there. but this a last step. not first and testing is first. .lots of tests are first. low-side pressure (30 psi par) high-side. pressure (300 psi par) are dampers stuck closed fuse blow bad compressor clutch make sure compressor is ok, first, if is the expansion valve is ok but there are test just for that. Dye tests for leaks to be found . once you break the loop and pump down vacuum pump is manitory to remove all water there (like 85% humid air ) and if is R134 hates that. and fails,.hard. (weak AC) and once loop breaks, a new receiver/dryer is need too. and more, lots more.

• Wiring problem - short to power maybe . Did you check wiring harness?
Anonymous Jan 27, 2022 Turn Signal Lamps The FRT/TRN/HAZ/CRTSY/MIRR and REAR/TRN/HAZ fuses in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the body control module (BCM). When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, a signal is sent to the BCM to illuminate the desired turn signal lamps. The BCM has an internal flasher that sends an ON-OFF voltage signal to either the left or right turn signals and their instrument panel cluster (IPC) indicator. When the hazard switch is pressed, a separate ground signal is sent to the BCM to activate and flash all turn signal lamps including both IPC turn indicators. The front and rear turn signals are grounded at G105, G350 and G340. The sound for the turn signal indicators is produced by the IPC.

Normally yes we do. Everything here points to the BCM as though it does everything. I am puzzled. https://www.google.com/search?q=+2008+Hummer+H3+ECM+pinout https://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Wiring-2008-1-4-1.pdf ..

use a meter to check switch and motor --also check track for debris jamming or gear problem

Turn Signal Lamps The FRT/TRN/HAZ/CRTSY/MIRR and REAR/TRN/HAZ fuses in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the body control module (BCM). When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left or right position, a signal is sent to the BCM to illuminate the desired turn signal lamps. The BCM has an internal flasher that sends an ON-OFF voltage signal to either the left or right turn signals and their instrument panel cluster (IPC) indicator. When the hazard switch is pressed, a separate ground signal is sent to the BCM to activate and flash all turn signal lamps including both IPC turn indicators. The front and rear turn signals are grounded at G105, G350 and G340. The sound for the turn signal indicators is produced by the IPC. DTC B0525 Left Turn Signal Circuit • DTC B0527 Right Turn Signal Circuit Low • DTC B0528 Right Turn Signal Circuit High • DTC B0529 Right Turn Signal Circuit Open DTC B0530 Right Turn Signal Circuit • DTC B0532 Left Turn Signal Circuit Low • DTC B0533 Left Turn Signal Circuit High • DTC B0534 Left Turn Signal Circuit Open Could be a switch problem , short to ground on the signal circuit to the BCM , BCM seeing a input that shouldn't be there etc.... I would have it checked for DTC'S diagnostic trouble codes .

Question edited for clarity and *won't, not want. Take it into a garage that has a good diagnostic scan tool. That is an electronics issue.

Ive changed the relay and the headlight switch on the dash .. still wont turn off headlights ? Just changing parts won't fix it , need to test . Hooking up a professional scan tool , one that can read codes in the BCM - body control module is the way to start to find the problem . Then familiarize yourself with how they work. Headlamps Major components of this system are the body control module (BCM), headlamp relay, beam select relay, ambient light sensor, headlamp and panel dimmer switch, turn signal/multifunction switch, park brake switch, and the low and high beam headlamps. The headlamps may be turned ON in 2 different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the ON position, normal operation occurs. Second, when the headlamp switch is placed in the AUTO position, automatic lamp control (ALC) operation occurs. During ALC control, the headlamps will be OFF in daylight conditions or in low/high beam operation in low light conditions. The headlamp relay receives battery positive voltage directly from the battery. The BCM supplies a ground signal to the headlamp relay for normal headlight operation. The BCM also supplies voltage to the beam select relay coil for high beam headlight operation. When the driver places the headlamp switch in the ON position and the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the headlamp relay supplies current flow through the left and right low beam headlamp fuses to both low and high beam headlamps. Both low beam headlights are grounded through the beam select relay. When activated, the dimmer switch sends a ground signal to the BCM in the high beam position and a momentary ground signal in the flash-to-pass (FTP) position from G106. The BCM then energizes the beam select relay which switches the headlamp grounds from the low beam headlight bulbs to the high beam headlight bulbs illuminating the high beam headlights. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned ON or flashed by activating the FTP portion of the switch. The instrument panel cluster (IPC) illuminates the high beam indicator when the BCM detects that the high beams are requested. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the BCM requesting illumination. The Headlamps On at Exit and Perimeter Lighting modes can be adjusted using the steering wheel controls to select the function as displayed in the driver information center (DIC). The Headlamps On at Exit selection will allow the driver to customize the period of time that the headlamps remain illuminated upon exiting the vehicle. This period can be adjusted from 0-180 seconds. The Perimeter Lighting feature allows the driver to select if they want the headlamps and backup lamps to illuminate when the door UNLOCK button on the key fob is activated. This feature can be turned ON or OFF by using the DIC steering wheel control buttons. DTC B2575 Headlamp Control Circuit Circuit Description When the body control module (BCM) senses a request for headlamp or daytime running lamp (DRL) illumination, the BCM sends a ground signal to the headlamp relay through the low beam headlamp relay control circuit. The headlamp relay will illuminate the low beam headlamps. Install a scan tool. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. With a scan tool, command the headlamps ON and OFF. Does the headlamp relay turn ON and OFF with each command? Do you know what bi-directional control means ? Need a professional scan tool to do these type of test . DTC B2602: Daytime Running Lamp Control Circuit Low or Open DTC B2603: Daytime Running Lamp Control Circuit High Without this type of info. from service repair manual an using a scan tool your missing the big picture .

that is the easiest

pretty much thats the easiest a bunch of gm vehicles are like that with the stat and housing mounted to the lower part of block

This is a simple fix for water leaking from sunroof causing water buildup on your front floorboards. Most important thing is do not take your vehicle to a GM dealership or anywhere else and spend $400!!!! This fix is easy and permanent and you can easily do it yourself!! STEPS: THE TWO DRAINS ON THE FRONT LEFT SIDE OF YOUR SUNROOF AND THE FRONT RIGHT SIDE ARE WHAT CARRY WATER DOWN THROUGH YOUR A&B PILLARS BEHIND THE DASH AND THEN OUT THROUGH THE FIREWALL. THESE STRAINS BECOME STUCK WITH LEAVES AND WHATEVER ELSE CAN FIT IN THE HOLE. FORGET ABOUT COMPRESSED AIR BLOWN DOWN THROUGH THE HOLES FROM THE SUNROOF THIS WILL ONLY CAUSE WHATEVER ELSE GUNK TO GET BLOCKED!! THIS IS A VERY VERY EASY FIX AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL ON GM PRODUCTS. IT CERTAINLY HAPPENED TO MY 2008 H3. Okay the first step is to grab a flashlight lean backwards on your floorboard and look up behind the brake and acceleration pedals about 1 and 1/2 to 2 ft at your firewall. You can easily reach this with your arm. Look carefully and you will see a drain hose which is attached to a black rubber grommet that goes through the firewall. It is this grommet that is causing the problem!! Detach the hose from The grommet by simply pulling it away from it. Don't worry about any water that drains from it. Next, wiggle that black grommet back and forth while pulling and it will easily detach from the firewall. Now grab that sucker and get out from that awkward position so you can do this simple fix. If you look through it you will see that there are three four or five rubber flaps which are inside of the grommet. I guess GM decided that it needed some filter for other ridiculous way to block debris in a hose that should be wide open, don't ask me why. Now the easy part is to grab a drill and drill bit or whatever device you can come up with and get a drill that will fit rather tightly into the grommet and proceed to drill back and forth making sure to only clear out those rubber flaps. Remember, the rubber flaps are your enemy and the sole cause of your problem. Once you have done this you will now get down on your back in your floorboard in that contorted position with your flashlight. You need to reinsert that grommet the same way you pulled it out. Just wiggle it back and forth while putting pressure until it pops into the firewall. Next, attached the hose and press it firmly into the grommet. You have now fixed your drain issue, at least for the driver side drain sunroof. To test open sunroof and get a glass of water and proceed to pour it into the metal pan which is meant to hold water before draining. Get out of the car and you will see the water easily draining out from the side of the front left tire! As a side note, just clearing this front left drain will drain 90% of the water from your sunroof or at least prevent any water from ending up in your car and covering your floorboard. Now if you need to do the right side it is exactly the same as the left however, you cannot lay on the passenger side floorboard and access the grommet easily. This grommet for the passenger drain is located just behind the glove box. If you are comfortable removing the right side panel of the glove box then you will see that grommet and pull that sucker out and do the previous steps. Personally, I was not comfortable removing the part necessary at the glove box to access the grommet so I took my car over to the friendly guys at my lube and tire shop who were more than happy to remove the glove box. I had brought my drill and bit with me and simply pulled The grommet out drilled it out and stuck it back in. The guys popped the piece back onto the glove box and I was good to go. I think I paid 10 bucks. It is terrible that some people have been absolutely ripped off at the dealership and sometimes charge $300 to $400 or even more to do exactly what I just discussed.. I know this post is old but I hope that I can help at least one person that runs across this post. Good luck on that drain and have a wonderful day!

Their is also the timing chain problem https://www.autocodes.com/p0017_hummer.html

Number one is at the front of the engine, (fan belt end).