Honda Prelude - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 2

Strange problems such as what you have described are usually caused by a poor ground connections. Without a manufacturer wiring diagram you are going to have a hard time locating where these ground connections are. There can often be ground connections in the wiring harness connectors. What you can try is to remove the negative battery terminal from the battery and to connect an ohmmeter to the negative of the battery and then check suspected ground points.

You can't do that.

I would start with whatever is causing the misfire. That seems to be the core of your emissions codes. Putting all codes together it seems to be clogged injectors vacuum leak. Seems to be causing stalling too.

Best would be to check the oil pump filter in the sump of the engine. these also clog up and drops the oil pressure resulting in a warning light

As the commenter said, check if the tranny fluid is full. A clear pink or red is best, a dirty brown or cloudy color is probably trouble. It's a '93- it is 24 years old, everything wears out eventually. I'm as old as the hills myself, and I can't run anymore. Start looking for a replacement transmission, or have a transmission shop diagnose it. Unless you are attached to the car, don't let them talk you into a new transmission-the cost may be more than the car is worth. You might want a used unit- try to get ANY kind of warranty-even 30 days is better than nothing. If it lasts beyond 30 days without a problem, it might go another 24 years---pshaw! not really.

I strongly suggest you initially concentrate on the basics. First ensure the engine is ok in all respects... I seem to remember Honda used to use the oil light as part of the fuel safety system - if the oil light came on the fuel pump would stop. That was a long time ago but well worth looking into. You did say the oil light came on and then the engine stopped - it isn't surprising the engine stopped but it is of fundamental importance to discover why the oil light came on. If the coil is producing sparks but the distributor is not redirecting those sparks to each cylinder there is clearly a fault inside the distributor that should be rectified. Similarly that broken knock sensor should be replaced and the fault codes in the brain recorded and erased before continuing. Diagnosing stuff and verifying each diagnosis is a process that must be worked through systematically - you have a long, long way to go before you need to be considering a new ECU.

if it has air bag in the wheel first you have to isolate the switch from the back of the wheel spokes ( side facing dash) there may be 2 screws set well into the spoke that are undone to get the center of the wheel out first from there on it is the same procedure as removing any steering wheel all is explained in the workshop manual

The very first thing you do is run an engine control module fault code test.

it sounds like you want a "power probe" . It's the best way to test continuity. A little pricey, though.

Your starter motor is either not getting power or in need of replacement. Otherwise, there is nothing wrong with your car. Also check your battery connections for no corrosion there as well as by the starter motor. Low voltage circuits in a car are extremely vulnerable to poor contact issues.

do a leak down test. It's common for early 90's Honda's to have bent valves. a leak down test may confirm it.

it is older and wiring gets bad for the signals statr testing for power from fuse box out to steering wheek then out to the lights ,as far as the high beams they have there own relay .

Do you have an 1/2" impact driver? that is what you need.

if the low pressure is between 2 adjacent cylinders, it will be cheaper to replace the head gasket

Try jumping the green cooling fan switch with a wire and see if it turns on while the car is on, if it does then it's probably your module.

The system is self bleeding, no bleed port is needed. You can use the fuel pressure test port to bleed it if you want, but just holding the gas pedal to the floor while you crank the engine will bleed the air out very quickly..

There is no bleed screw, the system is self bleeding as you crank it over any trapped air is expelled through the injectors nozzles..

-Here some basic. -Turn the key to on and off couple time. (Do not start). That all. Good luck Mai

The all in one PGM/fuel pump relay is bolted to the upper left hand side of the drivers foot well. It should be gray box with lots of wires coming out of it.

check the pollen filter change it as it must be blocked and no air or very little air is coming through.