GMC Yukon - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 9

If fuse was bad it would not start at all, definitely not the fuse, running for a while usually means that something gets hot, and thermal switch kills it.

Yep, Sounds like you have a bad misalignment that is causing stressing of the suspension. This also may cause another accident or cause injury. Have a body shop give you an estimate to repair the damage. They may tell you what is not right. If the cross member is obviously bent, they may be able to straighten it. If you are confident you can fix it, measure a good one, same model. take pics with your cell phone. Get all the frame mounting points as close to factory as possible using a solid good original point as a reference. Also check the top components are probably bent as well. Harbor Freight sells a hydraulic ram kit that may help. be very careful and should only try this is you are very handy, very safe, and a general fabricator.

Yes,the voltage regulator is bad,

Have you checked for any codes in the ECM ? May also want to check for spark at the wires/plugs.

There is no reset switch. Is there more than one issue? Engine cranking, you have spark at the plugs, gasoline engine. You have fuel injector pulse? Any applicable trouble codes? If more than one issue, have to check rpm signal. If only fuel issue, check voltage and ground for the fuel pump motor, 5.3l engine, gray wire is voltage, black is ground.

Try 2003 gmc yukon fuse diagram Google Search

Low fuel pressure ? What engine ? 4.3 vortec ? Center port fuel injection ? . These are real picky if it does have proper fuel pressure , won't start . These are know for various problems , leaking fuel pressure regulators located under the intake manifold . That is if your yukon has this system ?

Try 2004 yukon wiring diagram Google Search

check ICS for correct operation engine idle speed is 850 -950 rpms for auto and 750-850 for manual at 1200 rpms you are not on the idle circuits but on power circuits run the fault codes

Chevy.com/owners manual. Usually free.

It could be you fuel pressure regulator. The regulator, located near the fuel rail, is vacuum operated. It controls the amount of fuel to the injectors and back to the tank. when it goes bad the rubber diaphragm cracks and lets fuel leak into the vacuum side of the regulator and the vacuum comes off of the intake manifold. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

Sounds like you have an issue with your transfer case.

Before you need a wire diagram you first have to see what is missing ! Spark , fuel , compression . So you know which system to diagnose . There are video's on youtube for testing ! No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

I would assume that non spinning shaft you see is the front driveshaft. It only spins when you are in 4 Wheel Drive, otherwise it stays still.

#1 in the picture is electrical connector for canister purge solenoid. It has a two wire connector. One wire is pink, the other is dark green with a white tracer. Just to add, I looked at info for a 5.3L engine.

Depends on the codes. More likely the ECU is toast.

Could be a valve body problem, a shift solenoid problem or the transmission control module causing this.

SO you are saying you are unable to get the traction control to turn off by depressing the button? Does anything happen when you press the button? IF nothing happens you may have a faulty switch, or it could be dirty, maybe something was spilled near it. Or the ABS/Traction control module is defective

The immobiliser chip in the new key has to be matched to the ECU it cannot start without it.