It's possible you ran the battery down, trying to start? Have to make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. If battery is down, have to use a charger and get it charged, we can't test anything if battery is down.
I did look at power distribution wiring diagram for your vehicle, I found pcmB fuse--20 amp. Two fuse legs goes to pcm, the other goes to load side of fuel pump relay. If I had to guess, I'd say the fuel pump has a problem. If the wiring before the fuel pump relay or the pcm was the problem, then the fuse would blow as soon as soon as you plug it in. The fuse circuit shows to be hot all the time. Just my opinion. There might be other issues, but, I can't track it from where I am.
Instead of wasting money replacing parts that don't fix the the problem why don't you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop that has the proper diagnostic skill's an tool's to fix it right .
011 Fuel System Tests Fuel System Scan Data
problem throttle body or accelerator position sensor
there will be codes but it will need somebody experienced with the right scanner protocol to read them
That's often a sign of a failing check valve in the fuel pump. Try this. When you turn the key to RUN, the fuel pump activates for 2-seconds to boost any lost pressure. Try turning the key to RUN, then OFF and repeat three times. If the engine starts right up, you probably need a new fuel pump. The real test is called a leakdown test where the shop throws a pressure gauge on it and leaves it overnight. If it loses more than 5-10-psi, the check valve is shot. Can't be replaced separately .
My 02 trailblazer pulled that stuff on me. Finally disconnected both battery posts, touched together for 60 seconds. Pulled both PCM fuses together, reinstalled, reconnected the battery and started fine. Gremlins at play I guess.
Your passlock system is failing. If your key has the resistor pellet with the short wire on both sides of the shank, I can provide a bypass procedure. You will need an ohmmeter, some resistors you can get at radio shack, and a soldering iron. I do not recommend trying to repair the system--bypass is much easier. Let me know if you want the bypass procedure...
In my opinion, the first thing you need to address is the misfire. This COULD be also causing the hard shifting.
Case in point, though not directly related was a 1996 Ford Explorer. Lady thought the transmission was going bad because of delayed and hard shifting.
Upon test drive and then investigation it was found the catalytic converter was partially plugged and after replacement, transmission shifted as normal. The engine wasn't 'breathing' correctly (too much back pressure) so the lower torque of the engine wasn't allowing the transmission to 'see' the power so a delayed and hard shift was the result.
In your case the engine isn't producing the correct amount of power due to the misfire at part throttle which could delay and harshen the shifts. While 'getting on it' would increase the RPMs and 'mask' the misfire so the transmission would appear to shift 'normal'.
Hope this makes sense and is of some help.
Make sure that the starter solenoid is being activated and getting power to the starter. All battery connections and starter motor connection must be squeaky clean since any resistance in a 12 volt system may have a serious impact on power flow to device. Ignore the radio, heater etc during startup - the car is designed to turn them off when you turn the key to start so all power goes to the starter motor only.
The keyless entry system has the following main components:
• The transmitters
• The passenger door module (PDM)
The PDM communicates with the body control module (BCM) through the keyless entry serial data circuit. When you press a button on a transmitter, the transmitter sends a signal to the PDM. The PDM sends a request to the BCM and the BCM performs the appropriate function.
Even though you are pushing a pedal with your foot. most of these vehicles are all electronic. In other words you are not pushing or moving a cable like in an older vehicle. It more than likely has sensor on the pedal, which in turns sends a signal to the throttle body. I have an 04 Suburban that feels much like you described & it is all electronic.
Your vehicle has electronic throttle control . Position sensor's in the gas pedal an the throttle body , inputs to the Throttle Actuator Control Module
The TAC module is the control center for the throttle actuator control system. The TAC system is self-diagnosing and provides diagnostic information to the PCM through a dedicated serial data line. The TAC achieves throttle positioning by providing a pulse width modulated voltage to the TAC as directed by the PCM.
The throttle actuator control (TAC) system delivers improved throttle response and greater reliability and eliminates the need for mechanical cable. The TAC system performs the following functions:
• Accelerator pedal position sensing
• Throttle positioning to meet driver and engine demands
• Throttle position sensing
• Internal diagnostics
• Cruise control functions
• Manage TAC electrical power consumption
The TAC system components include the following:
• The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors
• The throttle body assembly
• The throttle actuator control module
• The powertrain control module (PCM)
Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor
The accelerator pedal assembly contains 2 individual APP sensors within the assembly. The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors 1 and 2 potentiometer type sensors each with 3 circuits:
• A 5-volt reference circuit
• A low reference circuit
• A signal circuit
The APP sensors are used to determine the pedal angle. The control module provides each APP sensor a 5-volt reference circuit and a low reference circuit. The APP sensors then provide the control module with signal voltage proportional to pedal movement. APP sensor 1 signal voltage is low at the rest position and increases as the accelerator pedal is applied. APP sensor 2 signal voltage is high at the rest position and decreases as the accelerator is applied.
Throttle Body Assembly
The throttle body assembly consists of the throttle body, the throttle position (TP) sensors, and the throttle actuator motor. The throttle body functions similar to a similar to a conventional throttle body with the following exceptions:
• An electric motor opens and closes the throttle valve.
• The throttle blade is spring loaded in both directions and the default position is slightly open.
• There are 2 individual TP sensors within the throttle body assembly.
The TP sensors 1 and 2 are potentiometer type sensors each with 3 circuits:
• A 5-volt reference circuit
• A low reference circuit
• A signal circuit
The TP sensors are used to determine the throttle plate angle. The control module provides each TP sensor a 5-volt reference circuit and a low reference circuit. The TP sensors then provide the control module with signal voltage proportional to throttle plate movement. Both TP sensor signal voltages are low at closed throttle and increase as the throttle opens.
Flickering light's could be caused by a bad diode in the alternator . Fluctuating idle could be caused same alternator problem or dirty throttle plate.
Throttle Body Cleaning To Restore Idle Quality
