Ford Focus - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

well bob wilson this is steve balic and i think i know you! anywho just change the instrument cluster and it be just fine! i just had same problem with my mothers 2003 ford focus and that's what it was!! i got a used one for a new one is big bucks unless u gots! u welcome bud

You have probably left off or not plugged in a connector properly. They are only supposed to plug in 1 way but sometimes can be forced in back to front. Check all the connections and multi plugs.

Hello
The doors in this car are monitored for closure by a central module called the BCM, it senses the that the door is closed through a switch called the Door Ajar sensor, it is a tiny micro switch that is a twist in design that is attached to the door latch inside the door. There are 4 door ajar switches if you have a 4 door, one inside each door. Each door ajar switch takes about 1 hour to replace and then you are not sure you got the right one, the most common would be of course the drivers door switch. The switch is about $20.00. Your choice here is to have the Ford dealer scan electronically and see which door ajar switch is the one that is keeping the warning light on, or just start with removing the drivers door panel and replace that one 1st and hope that is it.

Here are the general instructions for removing a Focus door panel to access the door ajar switch.

A. Removing the Door Panel

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting work

2. Roll the windows to approximately 1/2 open, and so the crank handle is in the Down

Position. With either the Crank Spring Removal Tool, or a flat Screwdriver, remove

the spring, located in a slot on the back of the crank.

3. Remove the cover plate for the remote-control mirror, which is held in place by 3

spring clips. Remove by gently pulling the front corner of the cover out, and then slide

the cover back.

4. Remove the door Pull-handle cover, by inserting a screwdriver into the access hole on

the bottom of the handle, and using the screwdriver as a lever, pop off the handle cover.

5. Remove the button covering a retaining screw in the interior door latch backing plate.

6. Remove the 8 Torx™ retaining screws around the perimeter of the door panel, and the

single Torx™ retaining screw in the interior door latch.

7. Remove the 2 hex bolts in the door handle.

8. Gently lift the panel upwards, to disengage the window weather-strip molding.

9. Remove the Door Latch Trim Panel, be sure to unplug the Power Lock Switch, and

remember how the wire was run.

10. Remove the interior door latch, by gently pulling out on the front corner, which is held

in by a plastic compression spring.

11. Remove the Foam Arm Rest bolster, by unclipping the 4 plastic compression clips and

the clip fasteners..

12. Remove the 4 Door Speaker screws, and disconnect the speaker.

13. Gently remove the closed cell Foam Cover from the doorframe, by pulling out, while

cutting the rubber cement around the cover. Remove all but the front edge of the cover.
This cover tears very easily, so use extreme care. The switch is located on the door latch inside the door, it just "twists" in and out. See picture below of the door ajar switch.

Any luck fixing this? Having the same problem with my focus

I change the wheel bearing on the Ford Focus 2012 model but now the speedometer is not working also the ABS light is on

washer jets are clear but after the cold weather no water coming out and pump making no noise is pump knackered if so how do u get at it and is it a quick fix

Why not try a used ECM? and get the key from the same vehicle if it is chipped.If yours and it are chipped,cut a non chipped key for your ignition.and once the used (known good working unit) ecm is installed ,use the nonchipped key in your ignition while holding the ecm key next to your ignition switch to start the vehicle.Once started run it and see if the same codes come up.If all is OK tape the chipped key under the plastic at the ignition lock and use non chipped keys now and pass the smog.

Try clearing the code from the computer. If it returns again, the second hand one could be bad also! Some codes are what they call a hard code, that stays in the computer memory, and will think that the problem wasn't repaired (even though the part was replaced). Till the code is cleared from the memory, the vehicle will return to a limp mode untill the problem is resolved!!

http://m.focushacks.com/mod/Adjusting_Shifter_Linkage_without_the_special_tool Check it out.

You have a loose connection on a wire sum wire on the radio id take the radio out in make sure every thing is tight where it needs to be in change the fuse on the back of the radio

This site has a lot of torque specs. http://www.championbrands.com/aera-torquespecs.pdf

very easy just go to reliable-store it has all manuals there many other websites also but in this matter this website is too good

Hold the lock button in, and they should slide all the way out................

go to google and check all the parts houses you want

its fuse 46 and it should be a 15 amp according to the manual as i have the same car as you hope this helps

I got this free Pdf man ual from reliable-store for free and I don't think Ive visited a mechanic or fixya for help for more than 3-4 times out of the 2 0 times I fixed the chipper in these 4 years

reverse lights . Automatic transmission or manual . Principles of Operation The voltage supply to the reversing lamps is provided by the reversing lamp switch on vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle and by the digital TR sensor on vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle. Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer concern.

1. Visually inspect the following for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Reversing lamp switch (manual transaxle)
• Digital transmission range (TR) sensor (automatic transaxle)

• Central junction box (CJB) fuse(s):
  • 40 (10A) (automatic transaxle)
  • 53 (10A) (manual transaxle)
• Bulb(s)
• Circuitry

1. If an obvious cause for an observed or reported concern is found, correct the cause (if possible) before proceeding to the next step.

1. If the cause is not visually evident, connect the diagnostic tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select the vehicle to be tested from the diagnostic tool menu. If the diagnostic tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
   • check that the program card is correctly installed.
   • check the connections to the vehicle.
   • check the ignition switch position.

1. If the diagnostic tool still does not communicate with the vehicle, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.

1. Carry out the diagnostic tool data link test. If the diagnostic tool responds with:
   • ISO circuit fault; all electronic units no communication/not equipped, refer to Section 418-00 .
   • No response/not equipped for the GEM, refer to Section 419-10 .
   • System passed, retrieve and record the continuous DTCs, erase the continuous DTCs and carry out self-test diagnostics for the GEM.

1. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index.

1. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, GO to Symptom Chart .

Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index DTC Description Source Action B1810 Lamp Back Up Switch Input Circuit Failure GEM If the reversing lamps are inoperative, Go To Pinpoint Test Q . If the reversing lamps are always on, Go To Pinpoint Test S . When the transaxle is placed in REVERSE, voltage is routed to the CJB fuse 40 (10A) through circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU). The voltage is then routed to the reversing lamps through circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK).

Possible Causes
• Fuse
• Circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH) open
• Circuit 15S-LG3 (GN/YE) open
• Circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU) open
• Circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK) open
• Reversing lamp switch
• CJB

PINPOINT TEST Q: THE REVERSING LAMPS ARE INOPERATIVE Test Step Result / Action to Take Q1 DETERMINE THE TRANSAXLE TYPE

• Check the vehicle and determine the type of transaxle.
• Is the vehicle equipped with a manual transaxle?

Yes GO to Q2 . No GO to Q5 . Q2 CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE REVERSING LAMP SWITCH

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: Reversing Lamp Switch C1407.
• Key in ON position.
• Measure the voltage between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and ground.
• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes GO to Q4 . No VERIFY the CJB fuse 53 (10A) is OK. If OK, GO to Q3 . Q3 CHECK CIRCUIT 15-LG28 (GN/WH) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: CJB C270f.
• Measure the resistance between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and the CJB C270f-9, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side.
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes INSTALL a new CJB. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q4 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-LG3 (GN/YE) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Connect a fused (10A) jumper wire between the reversing lamp switch C1407-2, circuit 15-LG28 (GN/WH), harness side and the reversing lamp switch C1407-1, circuit 15S-LG3 (GN/YE), harness side.
• Key in ON position.
• Do the reversing lamps illuminate?

Yes INSTALL a new reversing lamp switch. REFER to Reversing Lamp Switch in this section. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q5 CHECK THE PCM TRANSMISSION PIDs

• Key in ON position.
• Enter the following diagnostic mode on the diagnostic tool: PCM Transmission Range PID.
• Monitor the PCM transmission range PID while moving the transmission shift lever through all the transmission ranges.
• Do the transmission ranges agree with the PIDs?

Yes GO to Q6 . No REFER to Section 307-01 to continue diagnosis of the transmission. Q6 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-TA38B (GN/BU) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: CJB C270d.
• Apply the parking brake.
• Key in ON position.
• Place the transmission in REVERSE.
• Measure the voltage between the CJB C270d-14, circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU), harness side and ground.
• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes PLACE the transmission in PARK. GO to Q7 . No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation. Q7 CHECK CIRCUIT 15S-LG9 (GN/BK) FOR AN OPEN

• Key in OFF position.
• Connect a fused (10A) jumper wire between the CJB C270d-14, circuit 15S-TA38B (GN/BU), harness side and the CJB C270d-15, circuit 15S-LG9 (GN/BK), harness side.
• Key in ON position.
• Place the transmission in REVERSE.
• Do the reversing lamps illuminate?

Yes INSTALL a new CJB. TEST the system for normal operation. No REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/0c4oj-cig-lighter-2005-ford-focus-went.html

You might have a power trunk button try to look for it also you should download your owners manual at ford owners.Com it should give you the location and your fuse box diagrams and other information now the seat you will have to unbolt it the side panels pop out and are held in with clips the bottom of the seat may pop out by pushing inwards but this also could be bolted in look around the bottom also when you pop out the side panels you might gain accessories to the rear deck bolts that the third brake light is attached to and radio speakers if applicable anyway you should be able to axcess the trunk by this path it's going to be a pain in the gozompus but you can get in I don't own a focus but from memory of getting stuff in junk yards I'm trying to help you so excuse me if I'm wrong here or there so pull out the door seals that go around the door opening there might be panel bolts in the frame and seat bolts behind once you get to them you should be able to get to the levers also I know that the lock was possibly frozen when you put in the key knocking in the weather shield and jamming the lock cylinder you can try putting the key in and keep trying to turn it while banging the trunk where the cylinder is and you might jar it loose that metal flap has a spring on it and those 2 things are stopping the key from turning the other alternative is to try using a very small screwdriver to try to move it out of the way so the key will turn you have to be gentle here digging in like crazy will not help and last of all if you can't get in then use a drill and destroy the cylinder completely and a long screwdriver and a hammer will get you in you'll have to change the cylinder anyway so whack away at it if all else fails good luck stephen

I assume the lights were NOT on while the car was being driven?? If these lights stay on for an extended period (more than 5 minutes) of time after the engine has been shut off, this may suggest you have a faulty instrument cluster or potentially a parasitic drain on the battery caused by faulty wiring or an accessory that is drawing power from the car when it is off. To make sure there are not oil pressure issues ... I would check your oil dip stick level .... and also read any OBDII codes to see if the check engine light triggered anything. If the only issue is the lights going on ... which means there is an electrical issue ... you will probably have to take it to a good mechanic for troubleshooting the problem