Ford Explorer - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 5

Right rear behind inside trim panel , 2 or 4 door .

The oxygen (O2) sensors are located in the exhaust system. There are three O2 sensors and one Catalyst Monitor, one in each of the exhaust headers near each of the front wheels and the third in the common exhaust pipe further back. A special deep socket is available from any parts store to remove the sensors. The socket has a **** down its length to accommodate the sensor wire permanently attached. Simply disconnect the bullet connector and unscrew the sensor.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Question edited for clarity, plus full make and model. Question moved to better sub category. Those aren't codes they are abbreviations of components. Codes start P0NNN and tell you exactly what the issue is. If you changed the battery, you need to reset the anti-theft system. Clear the codes and then drive it.

Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) NOTE: The smart junction box (SJB) must be configured when installing a new module. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01 . The DRL system operates the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity. The SJB supplies pulse width modulated (PWM) voltage to illuminate the low beam headlamps at a reduced intensity when the following conditions are met:

• The headlamp switch is not in the HEADLAMPS ON position.
• The ignition switch is in the RUN position.
• The transmission is not in PARK (P).

This dealer only repair ,unless you have the ford IDS (factory scan tool ) .

You may want to stop driving it, open the hood, and check to make sure your belts are still attached.
The smell might be that your very low on power steering fluid, which would also make it extremely hard to steer.

You need an Auto-electrician, an Auto-Locksmith or the Dealership. You can't defeat the anti-theft system because it is there to stop the removal of the vehicle unless certain criteria are met..

I have the same problem on my Chateau, Can't buy new module, probably cost a fortune anyway. Disconnect the Grey connector on the alarm control module. I left the black on on for no special reason. Your power door locks will no longer work. (I'm not sure about the horn. If it doesn't I'll do something else)
The black control module is located on side of the van about 1 foot behind the drivers seat. Remove 2 plastic push in clips and yank the panel away to gain access to the module.

The PCM ( Powertrain control module) is located on the passenger side firewall in the engine compartment.
There is a diagram at this location
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/261618_Noname_245.jpg

What does anti-theft light do when this happens with the key in the on position.Does it come on for a sec then turn off or does it flash rapidly? If it is flashing then anti-theft is not seeing your key for some reason.This could be a bad key or a transponder for the anti-theft.
Second thing it could be is maybe computer isn't seeing the crankshaft position sensor. When you first turn on the ignition your check engine light should come on.It should go out while cranking but if vehicle doesn't start after a few seconds of cranking,while the engine is cranking it should come back on. If it does then computer sees the crankshaft position sensor.If it does not come on while cranking then it does not see it and it will not start.If this is the case you can try and wiggle the wires to the sensor(it will be located next to the front crankshaft pulley and it reads the teeth on the back of the crankshaft pulley.

specialty socket -can buy or borrow at most auto stores or hardware -and if you have sockets--size is 1 1/16

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Ford Explorer. Leave the battery in the car and get it on a charger overnight. It sounds like the battery is low and there isn't enough current amps to power everything with the starter as well. If that doesn't work, you need a good auto-electrician to put it on a pro quality scan tool computer..

In the event that no lights coming on in the dashboard and no other electrical buyers work, the battery could be totally dead or there is no association between the battery and the vehicle electrical framework. Check in the event that the battery terminals look tight. On the off chance that the battery is totally dead, kicking off might help. www.autoparts-miles.com/used-engines

Fix your car right away by clicking the link I attached 1998 Ford Explorer Workshop Repair Service Manual PDF Download

Fuse controlling the horn is usually a 15A fuse located in the Distribution Panel under the dash.
Usually there is a cluster of fuses running 4 across and about 8 down on this panel.
So, look for all the 15A fuses in this cluster and check with a circuit tester.
If you check each side of fuse and get the light...then fuse is good.
If ya get light on one side and not the other...you've got a blown fuse.

Before you do this, disconnect the wire off the horn and connect circuit tester to the horn's power wire / socket and press horn switch on sterring wheel.

If you don't get the light glow...then check your fuses.
If you get the light glow...then your horn is bad...and they do go bad.

Hope this helps.

look for a relay not a fuse

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Ford Explorer. Take a look at all the videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Ford+Explorer+5.0+oil+cooler+O-rings+replacement ..

Tires, move the rear tires forward and see if the noise moves, if it changes replace the tires.

The code is on a sticker in the rear panel by the tire jack... when you open the compartment, look inside towards the driver's seat... it's hard to see, I had to use my phone to get a pic and that's how I retrieved it... but it'll be on a sticker on that module...

Code Readers give a code, what was the code?? Codes warn of impending disaster or a total failure being imminent. Sensors are an important part of the engine running correctly and burning fuel efficiently. For instance, too much fuel added, equals a high fuel bill and sooty plugs which will fail. Conversely, too lean a mixture causes the engine to make too much heat in the combustion chamber, burning spark plug tips, burning valve rims and melting piston crowns. It appears to be a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. Were you low on gas going up the hill? https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+ford+explorer+fuel+rail+pressure+sensor+location ..

doing what not told. what are you fingers touching , not told. wiki J.D. Powers and Associates have plummeted because of the defects in the MyFord Touch system ask your FORD dealer to fix it, who else can IDK moved you to cars , from computers wrong place i does all these things. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MyFord_Touch not told what you are doing nor how.