I take help from online websites that have this service like helping in repair some like reliable- store have instant help.. others are a bit slow which I don't prefer... rest is up to u.. U can also get free manuals
The heater core is warmed up by the engine coolant. Usually there are two main coolant lines from the radiator to the engine and return from the engine to the radiator. Also there are two other coolant lines that supply warm coolant to the heater core and return it to the water from the engine.. So yes it could be that your car needs a new coolant line or both if the existing ones are bent or plugged(this is rare. But possible).
You can visually inspect the plastic hoses that supply the heater core to see is they are bent. And if possible when the car is fully warmed up and the heater is on at max heating capacity. You can touch both hoses that go into the firewall to check if they are both hot. (Very hot. But bearable) if only one is hot. That means there is an obstruction (hose would be plugged or heater core itself could be plugged). If both hoses are hot. Then the issue could be at the vent diverters behind the dash.
Could be any number of reasons why this happens . The headlamp switch , the dimmer switch the headlamp relay , the BCM - body control module , wiring , connections , ground etc..... Without testing no one on here could say for sure what's wrong . Do you know how to test electrical circuits ? Viewing wiring diagrams then using a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter to test the headlamp electrical circuits . Possibly hooking up a scan tool an checking headlamp switch input data to the BCM an seeing if the BCM is energizing the headlamp relay .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on headlamps . Click the search button then click on the blue links .
You can use the headlamps two different ways.
• Place the headlamp switch in the HEAD position for normal operations.
• Place the headlamp Switch in the OFF position for automatic lamp control (ALC) operation. During ALC the low beam headlamps are on for daytime running lamp (DRL) operation in daylight conditions or low beam headlamps and exterior park lamps on in low light conditions.
The DRL/EXT Fuse in the top underhood junction block supplies battery positive voltage at all time to the coil side of DRL relay, left low and high beam headlamps. The EXT LTS Fuse in the top underhood junction block supplies battery positive voltage at all time to the right low and high beam headlamps.
For normal manual low beam operation when the headlamp switch is placed in the HEAD position, ground is applied from G203, through the low beam contacts in the headlamp switch to the body control module (BCM).
The BCM then applies a ground to the headlamp relay control circuit. This energizes the headlamp relay in the left I/P junction block allowing ground from G201 to be applied through the switched contacts of the headlamp relay, through low beam contacts in the headlamp dimmer switch then to the left and right low beam headlamps, illuminating them.
For high beam operation the headlamp dimmer switch is placed in the HIGH position, ground is then applied from G201 through the switched contacts of the headlamp relay, through high contacts of the headlamp dimmer switch to the left and right high beam headlamps, illuminating them.
When the dimmer switch is placed in the HIGH position, the indicator lamp input to the BCM is pulled low. The BCM then sends a class 2 message to the instrument cluster in order to illuminate the high beam indicator lamp.
If the headlamp switch is left in the HEAD position, the inadvertent power control feature will turn off the headlamps after 10 minutes after you turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. If you place the headlamp switch in the head position after the ignition switch has been turned OFF, or if the ignition switch is in ACCY position, the headlamps will remain on until you turn them off or until the battery runs dead.
DTC P062F: Control Module Long Term Memory Performance
This diagnostic applies to internal microprocessor integrity conditions within the engine control module (ECM) and the throttle actuator control (TAC) system. This diagnostic also addresses if the ECM is not programmed.
The ECM monitors its ability to read and write to the memory. It also monitors a timing function. The ECM and the TAC processors are used to monitor the TAC system data. Both processors monitor the other processors data to verify that the indicated APP calculation is correct. The ECM performs an intrusive test in order to confirm that the APP signals are not shorted together. The ECM accomplishes this by pulling the APP sensor 2 low momentarily and looking for sensor 1 to also be pulled low.
The ECM did not complete the last electrically erasable programmable read only memory (EEPROM) write event during the last ECM power down. This diagnostic runs once per ignition cycle at power up.
Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop
You would need your diagram that shows your fuse locations and values- replacing a fuse that is not blown can not hurt at all so just replace them both with the same values, if you are unsure putting a smaller size will not hurt, if its too small it will simply blow and when you replace it you know to go higher, you can also call chevy and ask they can give you the values or check the owners manual https://www.6ya.com/mr.mike good luck
No probably not, someone other than an authorized alarm installer installed it and thats why you have an issue- the main issues is alarms and especially remote starts gains access to very powerful parts of your car and if connected and fused correctly would cause no damage to the car but will rarely fail. If in fact it is plugged up correctly then you have nothing to worry about unless it has a kill switch the car should operate normally without the remote start. If you do have a kill switch and the alarm was engaged and malfunctioned you may not be able to start your car without bypassing the remote start. Try looking for burn out fuse on the alarm fuse connections and the cars fuse box. don't buy an alarm module unless its the main control unit(another alarm) as this will not help- most alarm accessories are sensors most if not all the relays are in the main control box which is the alarm. good luck https://www.6ya.com/mr.mike