The first place to start would be to have a qualified repair shop hook up a factory or professional scan tool an check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored in the BCM - body control module .
The body control module (BCM) performs multiple body control functions. The BCM can control devices directly connected to its outputs based on input information. The BCM evaluates this information and controls certain body control systems by commanding outputs on or off. The BCM control inputs can be:
• Sensors and switches that are directly connected to the BCM
• Class 2 serial data received from other control modules connected to the class 2 serial data link
The BCM is also capable of controlling other vehicle systems that are not directly wired to the BCM. The BCM does this by sending specific messages on the class 2 serial data link. The control module capable of performing the required function will respond to the BCM message.
The BCM controls these functions:
• Audible warnings--Refer to Audible Warnings Description and Operation in Instrument Panel, Gages and Console.
• Automatic door locks--Refer to Power Door Locks Description and Operation in Doors.
• Automatic headlamp control--Refer to Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation in Lighting Systems.
• Interior lighting--Refer to Interior Lighting Systems Description and Operation in Lighting Systems.
• Keyless entry (AUO option)--Refer to Keyless Entry System Description and Operation in Keyless Entry.
• Passlock theft deterrent--Refer to Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description and Operation in Theft Deterrent.
• Retained accessory power (RAP)--Refer to Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Description and Operation .
Then if no DTC'S , pick one of the systems messing up . Test electrical circuit , using a wiring diagram an a DMM- digital multi-meter . Watch this video , not same model or make ,watch how this professional tech diagnose's
Chrysler Pacifica TIPM Electrical Problems
Question edited a bit for clarity.
Question moved from Cellphones category.
Not sure what you mean by 'the register'. That is an old fashioned name for a heater radiator? Do you mean something to do with the heating system, like vents of blend door actuators that control heat and cold direction?
or a window regulator.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Chevy+Avalanche+window+regulator
Click Comment UNDER my Answer if you need further help. I will get a notification and come back.
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alt died
then in 30min driving the battery dies and engine stops
the engine run off the ALT full time until the ALT dies
causing rapid battery discharge. and engine stalls.
do not replace the alternator with battery NEG lug connected of blow up ALT FUSES, never fun that.
or on newer smarter alts , it shuts down if 1 battery cell of 6 goes open or shorts, this prevents battery explosion.
so we load test the battery first. then if good the alt is bad. or we test the alt next.
this failure is super common , for 100 years.
we test the both carefully
the alt good will put 13v to 15vdc on the 2 battery lugs.
even at idle, and any dmm meter made can see that.
i just had the same problem, it started after having to get a "jump start" for a low battery. after checking the fuse(under the hood #43) I disconnected the battery for about 60 seconds to let the computers reset. works fine now. don't know the originalcause of the low battery, or the fault but don't want to pay the dealer service charge for doing the same thing...hope this helps ..billy
I replaced my transmission in my avalanche was working great line blew of so fixed that now it was working then it wouldn't grab gears had to stop turn off then on again and it would work but now I have no gears at all help before I burn this thing lol
DONT START THE CAR///IGNITION ON//PRESS THE GAS PEDAL DOWN 3 TIMES SLOWLY//THEN START THE CAR. THAT RESETS THE COMPUTER AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT.
The window in fixed to a window regulator. When it breaks it lets the window go into the down position. You will need to replace the plastic regulator. Not too hard. There are videos on line to help.
It sounds like you aren't using it enough and the battery is losing power. Invest in a battery charger, they are about $20. Mine has 6 amp for a full charge or 2 amps for a trickle charge. charge the battery overnight when you know you are going out. Put it on charge at least every couple of weeks. Lead Acid batteries need to be kept fully charged.
Something may be draining the battery faster than normal. That is called 'parasitic draw'. Hard to diagnose, but can be done.
If the battery does go completely flat, you need to reset the security system.
Finally, many car electrical systems need a full 13 volts to start due to the electronics.
Good luck Kristin.
