BMW 318 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 2

the fan clutch ( viscous fan hub is a left hand thread on the water pump shaft

Hi Thats you MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor Replace it and car will be fine. thanks

it sounds like the headlamp replacement has caused the problem you have. go back and get the work checked or get a good auto electrician to help

Do you still have the owner's manual. And why didn't you just take a picture and post that

Did you replace the thermostat? Sounds to me like it may be stuck closed. Have that checked out.

check the door switch

valves

Sounds like the radiator is clogged up. I would try to flush it or, replace it. flush bmw radiator YouTube

Shorted wire to sensor. Find a different mechanic!

Try checking or replacing the thermostat.

your garage is full of idiots. Ok, they replaced all those parts and no improvement. Make 'em put all the parts back and get a refund. They can't diagnose the problem so they're just replacing parts and hoping for the best. Now, if they replace enough parts, you'll end up with a brand new old car and it should run correctly. But, you don't list a problem, so I can't offer a solution. Could be the whole problem. If you didn't tell the shop what's wrong either, yeah....just replace stuff and pray. Praying works on German cars btw, because the pope is German and Jesus now loves German cars. Go to church, Pray, and write back with a specific problem that a bmw mechanic can help you with.

Don't worry I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem, just check the link I attached Bmw e46

have a load test done on the battery as it indicates a bad cell

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Land Rover Freelender 2002 TD4 Workshop Service Repair Manual

Well, I think I've finally won my 'No Start When Hot' battle!! After pulling my hair out for months, I ended up using a combination of the pointers listed above.

I had already cleaned the battery terminals, starter terminals, terminals at the alternator, and especially the ground connection from the engine block to the engine mount support arm to the chassis. Even after trying two other used (but good condition) starters, I had still been unsuccessful in resolving the issue.

The final two things that I believe did the trick were:
1. I finally remembered/realized that the positive cable from the battery first goes into and out of the B+ jumper box before going on to the starter. Since, I hadn't touched it yet, I dismantled it and took wire brushes to all four connections (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!!!)

2. Also, I got two big 'U.S. quarter sized' washers and placed one in between each of the starter lobes and the transmission bell housing in order to provide just a fraction more clearance to the flywheel (This is what I believe the main problem was in my case - mechanical clearance just as stated in one of the previous posts)! I finally came to believe this theory more and more because in order to start my car, sometimes if I rolled it just a few inches in neutral and then dropped the clutch in gear, I would then be able to take the car back out of gear and get it to start (almost as if the flywheel had to move just a tad bit to the right position for the starter to engage more easily).

It's now almost mid-August and I still haven't had any problems from the 'original' starter after approx. 7 months!!
Additional advice: Stick with Bosch starters!!

...Hope this helps someone else out there..

Try this video...shows you how to access the other fuse panel inside your glove box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJt6uIUII3g

My guess would be the mass air flow sensor, but unfortunately there's