Acura Cars & Trucks - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi, It is located behind the ashtray, it has to be removed to access the diagnostic port.

Are you sure it is oil? In a modern vehicle there is nothing containing oil inside the main cabin of the vehicle. Does the 'oil' have a smell? The only liquid inside the vehicle will be coolant which has an oily feel and will smell sweet. It will possibly be leaking from the Heater Matrix. This is a small radiator type unit that has engine coolant flowing through it to provide the heat for the temperature controls inside the vehicle. It is mounted deep under the centre of the dashboard. This means the whole dashboard might need to come out to get to it. A lot of work for a simple fix.

purchase a manual and wonder if you have the skills and tools to take on the job ---this is procedure for a 1999 acura I'm forwarding from one of our members MARVIN it will give you an idea what you will be facing Below are the proper steps to removing your vehicle's fuel tank.. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Relieve the fuel pressure Remove the rear seat cushion. Remove the plastic grommet from the floor pan. Detach the fuel pump electrical harness. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump by compressing the tabs on both sides of each nylon push connect fitting and easing the fuel line off of the fuel pump. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands. Remove the muffler mount. Remove the heat shields. Remove the fuel tank cover. Remove the drain plug and drain the gasoline into a approved container. Disconnect the fuel lines and remove the fuel filter and base. Loosen the fuel tank filler pipe clamp at the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank using a hydraulic jack and a block of wood or other suitable device. Remove the two fuel tank support strap bolts and position the straps out of the way. Partially lower the fuel tank to access the fuel tank filler pipe vent tube and disconnect the vent tube and filler pipe from the tank. Disconnect the fuel vapor tube from the tank. Lower the tank from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Hello. It seems your car's TCS Traction Control System is malfunctioning; causing the torque converter to stay 'engaged' to the engine. This will stop the engine from running when your car is in any drive gear. I don't know what your car's electrical problem is. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

SORRY WE DO NOT KNOW THE PRICING FOR REPAIR WORK ON YOUR ACURA

Hello. It seems your car has a faulty power cable; it may be 'shorting' against a metallic surface, frame etc. When battery cables get hot to the touch; that means either means excessive operation of the starter, the battery is too powerful or it is 'grounding'. Also the starter got hot; these reasons are why it wouldn't work. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

I have a 2001 Acura 3.2 CL

Turn your radio off
Press the #1 Preset button and #6 Preset button at the same time and while doing this with your other hand turn your radio on and your will get a stereo code. Call the dealer and see if they will give you the unlock code for the stereo code otherwise go to stereo-code.com and pay $ 28.00 to get it quick

My code is 15312 I have a Acura cl 3.2 2001

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1271649/Acura-3-5-Rl.html?page=1#manual

Hi.

If it starts honking immediately when you connect battery, then the problem is a faulty horn switch. The switch is shorted and will honk all the time.

A temporary solution to drive the car without being arrested is by removing the horn fuse. This is usually located in the in-car fuse panel.

After removing the fuse the car will not honk anymore. Drive the car to your local garage as soon as possible and have the horn switch replaced.

Regards.

Ginko.

Most likely culprit is simply low refrigerant. When the pressure gets too low it won't be able to get cold air to the entire system.

Some cars actually require higher octane, if the manufacturer suggest higher octane for maximum effenciency your best advised to do so.

Check the OBD codes.

Try This.. Stand with the engine belts and pulleys nearest to you. Look down at the engine. Bank ONE is the LEFT side of the engine, Bank TWO is the RIGHT side of the engine. Sensor TWO is positioned AFTER the Catalytic converter, (sometimes referred to as the 'Down Stream' sensor). I think the TL has it mounted right next to the Catalytic Converter Before the exhaust bends to go under the vehicle. This is one of those jobs that is guaranteed to take the skin off at least two knuckles! **These sensors can be VERY difficult to get loose so make sure your safe under the Vehicle. Use either Axle Stands on both sides of the vehicle, 'Roll On' inspection ramps with blocks under the rear wheels or a professional vehicle lift.**

Over rich combustion. Clean Throttle Body and MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. You are burning too much fuel. It could also be ignition, bad leads, coil packs or spark plugs on one or more cylinders. Start with the easy stuff. 30 minutes with a can of throttle body cleaner or carburetor cleaner.

Does the compressor clutch pull in when on ... maybe a faulty clutch.

GO SEE YOUR LOCAL DEALER .

try a dealer

you pay a professional repair service

The A/C compressor is cycling probably because the system is low on refrigerant, have it recharged and leak checked or just pick up a recharge kit and do it yourself. I hope this helps. Take Care.