Acura TL - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You will have to go to dealer to have unlocked. The vehicle has built in theft lock system in radio. Most of them have code stored in radio that needs to be pulled before removing battery.

There may be a TSB (technical service bulletin) on this. Call your dealership or look on line.

how cold -30F +30F +65F like here.(south USA) in the street or garage startup? ever get a real tune in 17years? old fuel?

My man tgs 26.440 malfunc eng contrl dont start

dead crank, starter silent? does the relay click?" if no relay clicks in DRIVE , shift to Netural and crank, see it works. all causes, 1; battery is dead, do head amps work and with key off and then key on and HL bright and heater blower fan on high same time,? good. 2: battery lugs loose or rusty clean and tight wins. 3: PRNDL problems (try neutral) 4: BCM problem , reset it. 5: bad starter. relay 6: bad starter. if 1 fails jumper cable start the car, or all AAA autoclub tow and jump it. or charger the battery with a battery chargers. or load test the battery.

You get a wiring diagram of that circuit

From there you will see what could stay on,
if that item failed,even though the car is turned

Before you say too many AMPS, always test to
confirm what your assumptions are.

Test,don't guess

Acura's and honda door handles are a little tricky to do.
make sure the window is all the way up.Then
1. u must remove the inside door panel.
next there is a plug on the inside edge of the door . remove this plug.
2. there is a 10mm bolt that hold the door handle on.
on some honda's and acura's door there will be a latch connecting rod. you will need a small tipped screw driver to remove this.
3. next there will be a 10mm bolt connecting the handle to the door inside. remove this bolt.
once the bolts carefully lift the handle upwards to remove the handle from the outside of the door.
At this point u can remove the door latch and other items that u wish to replace.
To install.. reverse this procedure.
Note.. is some cases there will be connecting wires to the handle and door latch itself. they must be disconnected prior to removeing and other components. Its a pain to do, but if u do not do this the connections could break and it is even harder to repair.
Take your time and don't force the parts apart. they are only plastic

its the drivers door latch one of the switches change the latch

charge the battery?? or jump the car.. could be a dirty battery connection, not enough power getting to starter

Can you please elaborate what isnt working? Is the blower fan not blowing? Is the temperature not getting cold? Is the HVAC control module not powering on? Is the a/c compressor not cycling on? If you can answer those questions, I can help you further diagnosing your a/c issue.

If you need a handsfreelink for bluetooth phone connection to the vehicle, I would look for aftermarket alternatives, or maybe even used units. I would err caution with this option as these modules fail commonly. If the HFL module is causing parasitic draw problem, I would just disconnect the module to prevent further draw.

My guess would be a burnt fuseable link. Closely inspect the main wires coming off of the battery and distribution center for a taped up bulge.

no info generic answer if directional move lever off if hazards push button off if check engine have scanned for trouble code

You don't mention the year of your Acura. If it's an older model, you may have a bad ground on the light socket...or a corroded/broken wire to the same socket.

The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.

Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.

At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.

Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.

You mean brake caliper piston?
Front or back?

Before jacking the wheels off the ground, use an appropriate socket with a solid drive size (1/2 inch drive usually works) ratchet or drive handle, and bang it with a sizable rubber mallet to loosen the lugs. In extreme situations, penetrating oil or WD-40 can be applied and let set for a few minutes before trying...

Brake pad i them selves are a fairly easy job. However, to do the job correctly the rotters must be turned on a lathe. If you take the rotors off and bring them to a shop then you should change the barrings, the barrings must be packed with grease and reinstalled all this is simple but takes skill. you can also just buy new rotors and then just turn the old ones at your leasure for use in the future. But that said, to change the pads you will need a "C" clamp, a screw driver and some break cleaner. open the hood and take the cover off the master break cylinder. if you can remove some of the fluid. as you depress the wheel cylinder fluid will build up in the master cylinder resivware and over flow, you might be able to catch this with rags. Don't let this get on the paint. You may also need a set of allen wrenches. use the allen wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the break assembly in place, with the bolts all the way out remove the assembly by rocking it back and forth. once off remove the pads (pay close attention to any clips and the position of the pads there could be a difference between the inside and out side, left or right). after the pad are off place the "C" clamp over the puck and slowly tighten until it is all the way in, just hand tight, don't crank hard or fast, take your time. this is the easy part. after it is in remove the clamp and install the pads in the revers order mentioned, tighten down the bolts real tight. after all the pads are replaced the brake fluid will look real yucky. and rusty, pump the break peddle and see if you get a good peddle. you should as long as you did not remove the lines. use the break cleaner to clean off any grime or dust on the rotters and pads.

Hi.

If it starts honking immediately when you connect battery, then the problem is a faulty horn switch. The switch is shorted and will honk all the time.

A temporary solution to drive the car without being arrested is by removing the horn fuse. This is usually located in the in-car fuse panel.

After removing the fuse the car will not honk anymore. Drive the car to your local garage as soon as possible and have the horn switch replaced.

Regards.

Ginko.