AC Cars & Trucks - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

There are two ports in the air conditioning system of Equinox. One is labelled H for high-pressure and the other one is labelled L for low-pressure. You can recharge your AC through the low-pressure port with a do it yourself AC recharge kit.Shake the canister briefly and release the refrigerant into the system until the recommended pressure has been achieved. Note: See next section for recommended pressure values

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so the blower is dead just , ? the blower does not blow to all vent ports in all modes for sure recirc mode. (off fresh is 60mph path see?) blower hear first, and on HIGH is best test, if fails only on low speeds the blower resistor block is shot. must blow on high. heard and FELT parked. key on, hot or cold engine. its just a blower DC motor 12vdc, and loud. all vent tested not just one and try all vent path modes,. felt blow. this is only 1 test of vast. we do the tests serially, from easy (hot) to hard (cold) step 2 if heater tests

no year car told or country of if options climate control is present. the heater fails for 3 ways.

1. engine not hot (coolant not 180f +)
2. dampers failing cell cool/heat blend door actuator motor dead.
3. or controls failing(oops connectors not put back)

we make sure the heater core is 180f, both tubes. if yes. thin it is a 100% air flow delivery problem. means problem in the dash, Air BOX. MEANS DAMPERS DEAD. OR JAMMED OR ALL ABOVE IS GOOD BUT CONTROLS ARE DEAD FOR HOT ./COLD.

Year/make/model???? Blower not blowing on some speeds or not blowing at all?

check fuses first? that is rare, mostly it is backwards from that. the controller , is the car with the the climate control option or manual heater controls? 2 systems and not the same read the manual use a voltmeter to find fail point https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

forget all that side show stuff battery light (this means battery bad or Alternator dead. load test the battery fully. no way is it 19 years old and good. charge it+ load test it(a tool) or get the battery tested in any shop or auto store, (most stores this is a free service) USA is. then if Lamp glows again the alternator is dead.(battery good now) caused by

• ALT is bad
• up to 3 fuses blown, for ALT.
• alt belt loose or missing?
• engine runs way way below 800 RPM, causing ALT to go off line.

last one is super rear and was EGR stuck open. super low RPM. keep in mind, Alternators go off line on purpose if battery shorts a cell, or has discovered an open CELL (10v battery not 12v) this is to prevent 2 bad things, battery does not explode(acid bath) and does not go over-voltage and blow up $3000 in electronics in the car. (never fun that and ALT's are much smarter now) AC turns off on all modern cars for many reasons battery lamp on,so the engine can get you home safely not wasting huge power from AC, as the ALT fails and the battery goes dead in 15 to 30 minutes, now does 30 min for sure in day light. even DRL lamps go dead if ALT fails.LAMP battery glows. and to prevent evap core freeze up or compressor damage or if engine overheats or PCM puts engine in limphome mode to gain bad lost engine power, so you can drive safely. The AC brain want to protect the engine and driver both. in your mind wonder how low engine power happens passing a logging truck at 75mph. bingo AC off line saves the day. and at WOT too wide open throttle, drive may be in danger this. also transmission too hot or in limphome it. and more, air bags brain does not like 10vdc, for DC power so , goes NUTS. it will self cure later , new battery and or ALT

HYUNDAI is driver on left side USA? your are barking up the wrong tree, the heater core is at 180f+ so there is no reason at all to be in the engine bay period. we can Cal also IR gun the 2 firewall tubes to core and see 180f and both hot means the core is working 100% one side hot told you the heater core if fully hot so believe it. what fails is simple the dampers. called blend damper doors and motors.and 3 causes the service manuals shows the tests. easy if your read it. 1: damper shaft (hinge) turns fully and free is good. 2; then we test the damper motor, see if it swings fully or not. if not it is bad, if dead, it is dead or controls are dead. to it 3: testing the controls is harder, lots more. but in the manual I refuse to reprint, we must test all doors there dampers. mode failing, recircc/fresh air door blind door some cars have 2 blind doors, left and right. like jeep commanders do. there are 4 damper here, top to bottom in SM floor door vent door temp door defrost door there is 12 part I see there, a floor door leaver but AC cold works so not that. I see no dual blend damper. on this car is heat good to all other ports, even glass defrost up top. now the strange stuff, in fact just happened to me, costy the cores can clop up 2ways. both inside hot water and outside fins or both, in such a way as only one side makes heat, I used a bore scope CA'M to find mine, and right side was packed on green rust on the heater core. to be honest , the distrubution boxes here can be partitioned oddly, and cause what I had wrong above on my car , the blend door hinge is split bug is ganged, and if the center hinge breaks I will loose all heat to right side. a $2000 fix too. 10 hours labor. so doing all tests is what matters, and guessing not. my post shows all the ways i've seen, in some case parts that need to be seen can not, there are youtube posters showing drilling 8mm holes casings to view doors with Bore scopes. Camera. for dead doors.(damper or 1/2 dead) or this kids stuff wads of papers into vents? if AC fails or is weak make sure the drain is not cogged up or evap core goes underwater and fullyfails or just half fails.. or floods the floors.

focus like a laser beam on BAG lamp no car told no year, or model or country sold to. check fuses scan the PCm fix bags. the newer the car the more strict BAGS (SRS) are, and varies by all countries on earths LOWS, (usa/ DOT) the slow is LIMPHOME MODE< and is ON PURPOSE>

no car told at all year yes. sad face and sorry no fuse to tell for just that 1 reason, and no engine told as fuse boxes vary buy ENGINES. sorry 100,000 models of cars and all that, now the generic answer and posted here vast times , 1 more. first off what does UNIT mean to you, me zero. AC dead , NO COLD air summer, are you in the FLORIDA keys? there are to macro causes, 1: the R134 loop is dead. or weak. 2; or air distribution system (cab blower etc) is failing. or weak. and we do this in that order, LOOP first. and using gauges for low side and high side to be in spec, per the manual. the dead compressor has these causes. 1: R134a leaked out as ALL DO and the high low Freon switch is tripped open, saving destruction of the compressor total, and worse. 2; the blower is dead in cab, if dead (no 12vdc to ) the AC is disabled so the core can not ICE up and brick out (more bad that) 3: the BCM runs this system, with aid of the controller AC. 4: fuses blown to AC clutch 5: relays blown to AC clutch and its fuse. 6: 12vdc makes it to clutch is a bad clutch or omg seized compressor. all it takes is a volt meter and service manual on the car. and even scan the PCm/BCM and it tells you OMG blown fuse X the car has glove box guide there, turn to chapter fuses. read that. or if lost that, buy one in usa the guides are free, PDF. and easy to find googled in seconds, the service manual is here, (I too must pay for top manuals) https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp the clutch also goes OFFLINE (on purpose) if the BCM controller sees Evap core IS up (a sensor) or if outside air is too cold so try defrost mode. the BCM also cuts AC off line if engine or transmission shows overheating NOW. saving engine for destruction (warped heads no fun) some cars see ENGINE in PCM limphome mode ,cut AC dead. those are all called now, today, permissive's. seen same thing when throttle by wire fails.(LIMP) car is a slug. so if CEL lamp is on the PCM must be scanned first. good luck , tell more get more no car told at all so........a hard nut case here.(nut to crack)

for the rv --manufacturer - rv dealer -rv shop -rv forum for the unit inside cover of the elect cover

that lamp is ALTERNATOR (GEN?BAT) lamp the alternator is dead or the fan belt that DRIVES it is slipping or bad or gone. the car needs service in a REAL SHOP, WHY not get it serviced as 99,9% today,. ???? fire your shop they FAILED you,. the lamp tells you this is a huge and serious problem , means car will soon stall driving for 1/2 to 1 hour less at night, that is what this means your shop tech is NO GOOD. find a real shop to fix your car in USA we USE ASE shops. are you in USA? not told. you. 2wd car???? cars are not the same world wide. so country maters and engine size not told or tell the VIN and I tell you what you own. 2000 chevy Tahoe. In the USA or OBD2 scan tools , connect it may say 2 things battery is bad or alternator or even both BATTERY CAN EVEN BE INTERMITTANT, A PAIN THIS, works correct then not the works, repeats. we load tests batteries fully. 1: check all fuses.FIRST. 2: load test the battery. 3: scan the PCM for DTC errors, tell them now. 4: engine at idle battery voltage is 13 to 15vdc, if lower ALT IS DEAD.(belts etc) or wires to it damaged. (4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L) ' (4.3L). 4 engines is the USA, You have which the PCM runs the ALT, fully and regulates it. Yes a bad battery can knock he ALT off line, but we load test the b battery first 100amp load or more. all auto stores will test the battery for you, even for free,(USA) I only cover USA< cars, (spec) OKay?

Does the vehicle have dual zone climate control, where the driver side and passenger side have different control? Sounds like a blend door issue on the driver side. Why did you replace the passenger side, was it blowing hot too when AC was on?

If you are bypassing the compressor then you dont need to do anything to the system. If it has a leak, it would be more responsible to get the refrigerant recovered instead of just letting it leak out.

anon#2 never do that get the car fixed in a shop or burn up the engine you will. I answered your first post anon

drivers side kick panel there will be a small cover just pull on it lid should come off the fuses are labeled just replace your fuse Good Luck Mike

call them back and ask , or buy the part and if unique, then it can only go 1 place or buy the service manual there can be special steps to put it in.

Sounds like you have found your problem, on the fire wall down low on the passenger side there should be your drain most are a elbow rubber type hose check it and I believe you have your solved. Good Luck Mike

Could be several problems. Depending on what vehicle you have you may have high and low pressure switches. If the freon is low, the low pressure will not let the compressor engage. The ac controller could be bad not sending current to the AC clutch. If you have power to the relay, depending on the vehicle, the relay may not be getting a ground signal.