I have read your problem and think that the trigger for your ECU is absent . Now the best option for you is to log on to www.polarisindustries.com and inthe location you are contact the supplier. Also if the spares supplied to you did not carry further information required for the conversion can be clarified and confirmed first hand without taking a wild guess or tampering. I understand you are competent to do the work and somewhere there is the missing link .Perhaps If the ECU has a protect due to some reason should be thought of, maybe a input to generate the output. so check this out once again with your manual. I dont have much to say but I hope I could help. Good day ·
Don't come down on me to hard because this is just a suggestion,but when ever you replace a controller or a computer they need to be calibrated,i'm not sure how on your machine but the dealership that you are dealing with should know how to do do the calibration,until it is done,you're not going to be playing off road for a while.
Test test
Let's hope you've not done all of this, else you're in for a $350+ ECM. :-(
Unplug the ECM.(Behind driver's seat.
Switch to turf mode.
#1. Measure between pin 26 on the ECM connector and battery negative
cable. Measurement should be close to 0 ohm. If so skip to #2
#2. Unplug the turf mode relay behind the LH seat.
If at this point all test fine then you're in for an ECM replacement.
Test the solenoid. You can touch 12V on the connectors to the solenoid
but dont keep it there. It was not designed to operate at a constant
12V. If you hear it click it should be fine although I prefer a visual
inspection ie remove the solenoid from the rear diff and see that it
retracts with power on it.Coil resistance on the solenoid should be 1.6 ohm
Have you checked for the proper operation of the solenoid?
What about the voltage it is being sent?
What is the model # of the aftermarket diff. ?
Thanks!!
4
Hi, well in my experience all it can be is a faulty ECU? They are quite delicate although i wouldn't have expected it to go toes up, for no good reason, you haven;'t spiked it or the like? I doubt it though. Still IF it is NOT outputting the signal to trigger the relay, there really isn't any other answer is there?
Try triggering the relay externally, does it change over? As perhaps it is the relay, or perhaps the ECU isn't outputting the correct amount of current to actually drive the relay electronics and relay?
have you checked for the voltage Current coming out of the ECU? is it outputting anything at all?
If you can drive the relay externally via an external current the same as that that comes from the ECU, and it doesn't "Trip" then then the relay drive is bad, else it Must be the ECU?
remember the old adage "Are your voltages correct?" Check them at all the relevant locations...
Mind you ECU's can be pigs of things too, make sure ALL earthing on everything, is good and solid too.
I had this same problem andit was the ECU which was a bad one. Once I replaced it I was up and running.
Good day. Try plugging back in your old unit, to see if the ECU is not faulty. If the ECU does send a signal to the old diff, remove the ECU and have it tested.
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This is a new installation there is no old unit to plug anything into, two wires have been added to the ECU a ground input and a voltage output. I am not getting any output from the ECU to close the relay that energizes the differential solenoid.
How likely is it that the ECU is bad , the machine has about 10 hours on it. I am leaning this way but before I spend $300 more I would like to make sure. I would really like a response from someone who has actually converted a US RZR differential over to the international turf differential also some dealers have said that maybe the ECU needs to be flashed while others say they've never heard of it being done. So I'm somewhat lost as Polaris won't talk to me and the dealers don't seem to have much interest in helping ! ! !
So I appreciate your help and patience.
I have checked virtually everything that I can think of and the problem still appears to be no ECU output. I talked to one of my electronic guys at work and he said that even if two pins on the ECU got shorted togeather momentarily that is enough to create problems within and this may have happened. This is such a simple circuit if you look at the print it looks like it has to be the ECU, maybe I just don't want to believe it's B.O. So give me one more EXPERT OPINION and I will go with it. THANKS AGAIN ! ! ! !
These are all Polaris parts the differential, solenoid and dash mounted turf switch. I have 12V going to the ECU and 12V going to the relay, when you select turf the 12V wire to the ECU goes to ground which is supposed to trigger something in the ECU to give a quick 12V to pull the solenoid on the diff in then thru pulse width modulation it goes to a lower current draw to hold the solenoid in. It says in the shop manual not to apply 12V for more than 1 sec. or it will ruin the coil. Other than that the service malual is quite vague on details and as I said Polaris will not let me talk to anybody and my dealer doesn't seem to have any interest in helping me with this. This is not an experimental project this system is installed in all RZRs that are sold out of the U.S.
I did all of the checks suggested and according to your troubleshooting guide it points to a B.O.ECU. If someone else will agree that this procedure definitely points to a B.O. ECU I will replace it but as you can understand I want to be sure that this is the problem before I spend $350.
THANKS AGAIN
BILL
What does test test mean ?
From what I am being told these ECU modules are plug & play there has been no mention of reprograming or flashing, but like I said before Polaris won't talk to me and the dealers don't care enough to make a phone call that's why I'm asking you guys for help or suggestions.
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