I went out plowing. I used my wrench and had the lights on and then after I shut my mule off it was very hard to startlike it didn't crank fast enough. and then seemed like it was dying. Sometimes when I just drive park then try to start it, it does the same thing. I was thinking of bringing a extra battery and cables with me wherever I go. What's your thoughts?
I would return the mule to the dealer where you bought it,and let the warranty pay for the battery and testing,etc.
Testimonial: "right now its in the shop for the crankcase pressure relief hose. Its getting updated. A common problem I guess. Freezes and sends oil up thru the oil cap. I talk to them about the battery too."
I just talked to the local Kawasaki dealer and they are going to check the charging system and battery for cold starting issues etc... . Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Apparently is not a warranty issue. Instead of a update they call it a upgrade. Therefore I paid for it. I just have to crawl under the machine and drain the reservoir when I see fluid builds up.
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SOURCE: How do I change the starter in a 2000 Toyota Camry LE
i'm sure it's not the starter itself that is the problem, have the stater's solenoid checked...it might be stucked. It's quite a lot of work removing the starter but you can do it if you are willing enough to learn. You just need the right idea and tools to do it. Hope this will help save you bucks!
SOURCE: Kawasaki Mule 500 KAF 300 starter will not work below 60 degrees.
Using a lighter viscosity engine oil can make all the difference. Try something on the order of a 5W-30 for ambient temperatures of 60F or below. Of course, it could also be that your starter solenoid is in the early stages of failure. You can easily check it by using a large screwdriver to bridge the two large cable connections on the top of the solenoid. If the starter spins when you do this, then the solenoid is bad.
SOURCE: What cold cranking amp rating should the battery be ?
It should be enough for that size engine. That is 550 AMPs for 30seconds in 0 degrees. Most cars have batteries twice the power than they need. It helps run the accessories like lights and radio. If your car has trouble starting right away, you may want to get the strongest one that you can fit in there. If it runs fine, then I wouldn't worry about it.
SOURCE: 97 Yukon sometimes won't start, cold or hot. Does
Check for "Ignition crank sensors" GMC's are well known for water on these sensors and eating them up causing "no start" Hope this helps
Testimonial: "Good advice"
SOURCE: 2004 FORD EXPLORER parked it, 3 hrs later , won't
You are right.Its the key code problem.
As per the manual it says:--- sometimes when the battery is disconnected or has to be recharged - this happens. The computer forgets the key code and the key has to be re-coded. The ford service center/dealer charge $35 to $50 for recoding the key and this makes the car to function properly and it starts .
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Also check the code in your car:--- under the plastic-passenger side under the very back window-next to rear passenger door jam-Looks like a black box. The Original Code is on a tag on that box.But if its not there then dealer is other option/.It takes few minutes to get recoded.----------------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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