There may be one or more causes for the P0485 code. One is a faulty cooling fan. Another is that your fan control relay harness is shorted or open. Your fan control relay or fan control circuit may also suffer from a poor electrical connection.
300 or 500 motor? Here is a site that you can use to see which carb you have or one that will interchange with your's.
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Arctic-Cat-300-1998/dp/B07PC13PST
Most new spark plugs are supplied with a gap suitable for the application they are mostly purchased for but that doesn't mean they are right for your engine or that any rough handling hasn't altered one or more of the gaps so it is always best to check the gaps before installing them.
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There is a problem with one or more of the following:
1) Dead Cell In The Battery
2) Plug / Connection Came Loose / Bad Or Missing Ground Cable
3) Voltage Regulator
4) Stater Is Bad
5) Wiring Harness Has A Broken Or Grounded Wire
The primary requirement apart from a healthy charging system is a healthy battery and it is the problem with little used vehicles and other battery powered equipment is few people remember to periodically charge them - a battery will self discharge over time and when connected to a vehicle with an electronic system that is always "on", the discharge rate will be greater.
A battery that is left partly or completely discharged for even a few weeks will be permanently damaged or completely ruined.
As a matter of diverse interest, a vehicle "charging" system is a massive misnomer as firstly it isn't designed to recharge a battery but to keep a fully charged battery fully charged (and usually doesn't do that very well) and because of the design of the system, the "charge" rate quickly drops to a trickle charge and few people drive constantly for the large number of hours it takes to recharge a battery that is being trickle charged - a large car battery can take a week or longer...
First remove the battery, charge and test it...
I am wondering how you know these wires are shorted?
Having replaced the entire ignition system, it would be safe to assume if one component had been faulty it should now spark so clearly something else is wrong.
Scooters and motorcycles tend to have complex wiring and with many modern examples including an anti-theft system, troubleshooting faults is difficult and without a wiring diagram is very difficult and time-consuming even for experts, near impossible for the uninitiated...
Even when testing a stator you need to know where the coils terminate, additionally it is useful to know when testing those coils with an ohmmeter, the resistance will be so low it will look like a short circuit with most analogue meters.
Even if there is no anti-theft system, if the ignition switch is on the instrument panel, ignition related wiring goes to the ignition switch and back again and it doesn't even need a faulty switch to stop the engine starting, a single corroded terminal or connector would be enough...
Castle nut is usually backed by a washer that is keyed to the stub axle either by a flat on the threaded part of the axle or by a groove or in rare examples by a splined shoulder.
These are merely precautions because a healthy bearing assembly should roll smoothly without any turning of the inner on the shaft and if this is so there is no or minimal turning force exerted on the washer, nut and cotter...
Assuming it is a typical hub with a pair of taper roller bearings, the most common reason why a turning force is exerted on the outer bearing inner race is over-tightening - there is a general and incorrect belief this type of bearing should be adjusted so there is no detectable free play.
Where the hub also carries a brake rotor, it will become warm or even hot in use and expand and that expansion will be at a greater rate than the axle and so will have the effect of tightening the bearing, often with the predictable result of bearing damage, the bearing turning on the shaft and perhaps even losing the nut, etc.
The correct method of adjustment is not to feel the free play by rocking the wheel - some of what is felt is the clearance between the bearing and shaft. The correct method is by measuring the hub end-float with a dial gauge, though tightening the nut finger tight and unscrewing it by one castellation before fitting the cotter serves most applications and is far less than that recommended by the bearing manufacturer. You will of course need a new washer.
After losing the wheel twice I would suspect both the bearings and the stub axle will have sustained some damage...
The symptom you describe suggests the clutch plates aren't disengaging; due to maladjustment, wear patterns on plates and/or basket (or cage) or worn or broken operating mechanism...
if your getting spark, compression and gas, check your mechanical and electrical timing.
Make sure there is plenty of charge in the battery.
Can you feel any suction on the carb when you cover the intake with your palm and crank the engine?
Can you feel the exhaust blowing as you crank?
If these are all OK you could have an issue with the ignition electronics.
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If the soleniod engages and no starter motor run.....the solenoid is bad or bad starter motor brushes.....do not rap on the starter ......the permanent magnets are subject too damage ......replace the starter ..........
Do not know where to begin. Does the engine have compression? Are the valves adjusted correctly? Is it getting fuel, fresh fuel? Is there a spare to the spark plug? Is voltage getting to the ignition system, all fuses ok?
It might be the spark plugs or plug , but it looks like a fuel, pressure, filter,and injector problems Changing the plug is really easy. If it still occurs , change out fuel and then check the fuel pressures.
