If it turns over fast it is not the battery or charging system. If it turns over fast but does not like to start when motor is warm it is probably running rich. If it ran good before and the carb has not been messed with i would check the air filter. It needs to be nice and clean.
if the o2 sensor is still in the pipes , it is ok
if not have the adaptor fitted to the pipes and it will be ok
the sensor reports the gas composition to the ECM to adjust the air/fuel mixture
if the new pipes are pollution control compliant the adaptor should be already there
if they are not then you are achieving nothing with the different pipes but are actually decreasing fuel economy
Try taking a look at the starter and flywheel while attempting to start the engine. Does the small gear at the end of the starter move forward and engage the flywheel when you try to start the engine? Could it be stuck? The small gear must move forward to engage the flywheel. Keep your fingers away from the moving parts.
Your 4 wheel drive may be working, but it is a torque-sensing front
differential for reduced steering effort, that supposedly sends power to the wheel with the most traction. Many owners have found that just the opposite is true. Your problem may mean that the differential is working, but because it doesn't lock up both tires in the front and only one tire is getting all the traction you can't see it work as advertised. The link to the video is great for showing what may be happening. The front differential may be worn out and need to be fixed or it may just be that it is not working as you expected:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF-iD4pmmoA
Take the float bowl off the carb. Pull the pin that holds the float on. The needle is attached to the float. The needle just came out of the needle seat. The needle seat can now be pulled out. This is the fun part. Are you really sure it need replaced? If it is needing a good cleaning, take some Mother's aluminum polish and a cotton swab and put it in the seat and spin the heck out of it. It will polish up nice. Be sure to clean with carb cleaner to get any extra polish out before use.. reassemble.
Sometimes you need to adjust your clutch cable. as the disks wear out you have to tighten it to get it to disengage. if the cable is adjusted too tight then it will slip because it is not taking all the pressure off the disks so they can fully grab. That is where i would start
see this link for free wiring diagrams for all chinese machines
http://www.kazumausaonline.com/more-chinese-parts-chinese-atv-wiring-diagrams-c-277_325.html
If you have a Honda Rubicon, you must place the transmission in Neutral, then pull in Left Hand brake and push down Reverse knob that will remove the reverse lockout and allow you to shift it into reverse. If that doesn't work your reverse lockout knob might be defective or out of adjustment. The adjuster, depending on which model you have, will be on one end of the reverse lockout cable.
I do need more info.. BUT, #1 the main ignition coil could be going bad..when it gets hot (electrically), it starts breaking down internally, #2, could be a clogged fuel system,, the system is vented to allow fuel to flow through the petcock to the carb. If the fuel tank is totally sealed, it will vacuum lock. Let the atv sit for a few minutes, then it repeats this cycle? #3- make sure the vent tubes on the carb are clean and will flow air through them!! These are the three most obvious choices and a great starting point. Make sure your air filter is clean and in good shape!!!!!!
hay ya did you mean drive belt ? and is that the zero turn model only asking cos most of them are liquid cooled get back to me without fans sorry if this has wasted your time
Your Charging system is not working. You may need to replace the alternator. The only reason it runs when you are hooked to a charger is your battery is not holding a charge and the alternator is not producing the electricity needed to fire the spark plugs. When you hook up to charger, you now have the voltage necessary to fire the spark plugs.
